If Athens and the Acropolis are on your bucket list but you’re put off by the thought of intense heat and insane crowds, this is your sign to go right now. Because springtime is the best time to visit Athens.

Usually when I step off a plane in Athens, it’s summertime. That sort of punch-you-in-the-lungs heat that you never get in the UK. It’s always a bit of a shock to the system.

It can easily hit 40 degrees in high season Athens. And in fact the only thing saving Athens from being completely unbearable is the breeze that blows off the Aegean Sea. Many Athenians abandon the city for the islands in summer, because it’s so hot inland. That should tell you something.

My springtime experience…

Firstly, I’ve had a very decent ride with Aegean (complimentary hot Greek meal and drinks, clean A360 plane with good legroom). Arriving into Athens on easyJet is a lot less easy on the old 50-plus bod, it has to be said. I’m Aegean all the way from now on.

A very decent prawn cocktail, hot pastitsio, and snacky biccie thing on board, for those of you interested. Wine not shown, ahem.

It’s heavenly stepping off the plane

Not unlike an early summer’s day in England – everything is warm, but has a light, green feeling. You can take a deep breath, draw in the fresh air, everything verdant and new, rather than the heat of summer when it’s all overripe, heavy and cloying like a black banana.

It’s early March and it’s the first time I’ve done Athens so early in the year. Before I even leave the runway and get into the airport I’m a convert.

First stop in my short trip is the hotel

I’m staying at the famous and beautifully elegant Hotel Grande Bretagne in Syntagma Square. One of the best five-star residences in Athens, and arguably the most famous, the hotel celebrated 150 years in 2024. It’s actually a Marriott now, but don’t let that put you off; it’s also a Luxury Collection hotel and retains its stately standing, with beautifully appointed bedrooms, excellent bars and restaurants, luxey pools and spa amenities, and that feeling I always want from a grande dame.

It has all its individual charm, great service, and feels every inch the traditional five star. My room also has a great view, plus the most exciting snackie drawer and well-stocked mini-bar I’ve seen in a hotel room for a long time. Bravo.

We arrive at the hotel in the late afternoon – there are a few of us travelling together – and once we’ve showered and changed, we’re all ready for some fun.

First things first; a drink in Alexander’s Bar at the hotel. This is a great place to start the evening – the bar and lounge are furnished with a nod to both Greek culture and the British theme of the hotel. I try not to feel too colonial.

The hotel, incidentally, has great views of the Acropolis. There’s an outdoor pool with stunning views of the hill and the buildings. Inside Alexander’s, there’s also an atrium where you can sit ‘outside’ and enjoy a peaceful oasis slap bang in the middle of one of the noisiest cities in the world. Cocktails all round, and then we’re definitely ready for some food. We head out into the Athens nightlife.

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Time for dinner and we’re off to Ergon

This is a place I’ve been wanting to visit for ages, so I’m thrilled to be at Ergon House. This isn’t just a restaurant. It’s a deli, a place to stay… a place to eat and drink and relax. The inside is set in a vast light atrium space, and the ethos is very much about local farmers and producers, seasonal foods and sustainable agriculture.

There’s even a ‘vertical orchard’ stretching up one wall of the 25-metre atrium which is worth the trip alone to have a look at. Incorporating the latest advancements in hydroponics and aquaponics, it serves as a 2.0 farming field, growing seasonal herbs such as oregano, basil, and rosemary. Unfortunately my photograph of it was awful, but you can see it on their website.

As you’d probably imagine from a place with these credentials, the food here is stunning. We pile into a range of different smaller plates; dolmades, Greek salad, khachapuri (that bread boat thing with cheese and egg in the middle), mad cheese pastries… but seeing as we’re sat right in the middle of one of the best butcheries in Athens, the obvious choice here is from the fresh meat counter.

You can pick things to eat from the deli and butchery counters – it’s an immersive eating experience – so I went for some lamb chops which were on the specials board. Sublime. And to finish off, at the insistence of the team at the restaurant, a vast quantity of local piney liqueur, Mastika, made from tree resin. This is an acquired taste, but a good digestif.

Safe to say we weren’t moving at any kind of speed after that lot, and we slid happily into digesting, chatting, and enjoying the buzz of an Athens just waking up from winter.

However, I’ll sleep when I’m dead…

I’m only in Athens for a short time so I’m making the most of it. I’ve been recommended a bar called The Bank Job. I feel it’s my duty to try it out, and my travelling chums are keen to support this noble effort. It’s only a short walk from Ergon (what did we do before Google maps?), and we’re glad we made the effort.

As you might guess, it’s in an old bank vault, with drinking spaces both inside and out, and it’s gently busy. We enjoy some really outstanding cocktails, and some freebies from the owner. I’d love to tell you his name but by this point things are delightfully hazy. Deciding to call it a night, and not ruin the next day, I slide off around 1am. Apparently I’m becoming more sensible in my advancing years.

Clearly being very sensible. Making the most of the Athens nightlife

Not sensible enough to avoid a thick head the next morning unfortunately…

But sensible enough to get up, shower, enjoy a decent breakfast and get to the Acropolis at a very reasonable hour. The site is open from 8am and I’m there before 9, because I’m wondering if there might be a bit of a queue, even at this time of the year. However, I wasn’t prepared for it to be so quiet. We paid our money, got our tickets and slipped straight through.

The Erechtheion or Temple of Athena Polias

Once on the site I could count the number of people there on one hand. It was slightly bizarre. I’ve been before but only in summertime, which is brutal. It’s so busy you can barely see the ground under your feet for crowds around you, let alone the ancient wonders.

This, then, is possibly the best reason of all to come in springtime. Late February/early March (avoiding that sneaky half term towards the end of the month) and probably well into April is prime time if you want to really see the Parthenon, the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erechtheion and so on. Not to mention a smog-free view of the city, laid out around you. It’s breathtaking, no exaggeration. Do it.

The Greek Theatre of Dionysus, and Athens beyond

View over Athens from Acropolis

Leaving the Acropolis we pottered down the hill

Already slowing into Greece pace – siga, siga, for those who know – which roughly means ‘slowly, slowly’. By this point it’s around 17 degrees, and the streets are littered with jolly dogs and watchful cats enjoying the gentle spring warmth. I pat a few lazily wagging curs. They sniff me hopefully for treats, and I wonder how they cope in the blazing summer heat. I guess they’re used to it. The road is cobbled and in very good nick. It’s also very clean.

Next up, the Acropolis Museum

The Acropolis Museum is relatively new, having opened in 2009 after a fierce architectural competition – CAD-bags at dawn, one assumes. It’s actually a lovely job, architecturally-speaking. Modern and minimalist, the design lends more than a nod to the stately Acropolis architecture on the hill behind it. And there is a lot of glass. The windows are coated and the antiquities positioned so there’s no sun damage. But the lighting throughout the building is a joy.

The museum incorporates an ancient Athenian village, built around it to both preserve and display it. Discovered during an excavation, this 4,000-square-metre insight into ancient Athenian living can be seen from the viewing platforms. And somewhat disconcertingly through the glass floors.

Upstairs you enter an extraordinary space, filled with statues and pottery findings from past civilisations, leading up to the Roman Empire. Move through and you can get up close and personal with a couple of caryatids, sculpted women who for a couple of thousand years bore the weight of the Erechtheion. And there are the strangely humbling Parthenon statues upstairs in the glass gallery. It’s quite the ride, and a must-see for archaeologist enthusiasts.

At the museum I joined a tour group

So I could traipse round and understand what I was looking at. The guide however spent half the time telling everyone how terrible the British were for stealing things. A fair point, I’ll concede, but not something I can personally fix whilst on a mini break. And her endless ranting made it impossible to enjoy the treasures. Eventually I got fed up of being told off for something I hadn’t actually done myself, and went off piste, abandoning the group. I wasn’t the only one to ditch, either.

Happier walking around at my own pace, and feeling less like a dog with its tail between its legs, I drifted through the beautiful statuary in a happy little dream. The museum is well laid out and enjoyable to walk around. But like any museum, one hits a limit eventually – or at least my lower back does – and it’s time to stop the drifting.

Thankfully, there’s a very good restaurant on site. Time for some lunch after my busy morning. Obviously the vast meal of last night and hearty breakfast of earlier haven’t quite done the trick because I’m all over this lunch like a cheap suit. Excellent wine makes my cheeks pink, and I work my way through both spanakopita and Greek salad, followed by some kind of slow cooked beef thing (not stifado) with potatoes.

I’ve impressed even myself. I’ve also knocked myself flat on my back – I grab a taxi and head back to the hotel. Time for a nap.

My ‘nap’ ends up being an all-nighter

I ended up feeling so fat and happy in bed that I stayed there. I ordered a bit of room service, and had a good night’s sleep. In the morning, we left early, and my only regret is that I didn’t get to explore the hotel further. I had wanted to swim in the pools, eat in the restaurants. But it was a flying visit, and hopefully I’ll be able to go back.

More than anything, I would urge anyone keen to see the ancient treasures of Athens to go right now, before it gets any hotter. I am here to tell you that – for this kind of experience – springtime is the best time to go to Athens.

Sam Harrington-Lowe

Sam is Silver’s founder and editor-in-chief. She’s largely responsible for organising all the things, but still finds time to do the odd bit of writing. Not enough though. Send help.

The post Why springtime is the best time to visit Athens appeared first on Silver Magazine.

How are you finding your Dry January? If you’re already ready to rip, and counting the hours until it’s over, let me tell you about a trip I had to Cyprus with an itinerary including gin and wine tasting.

I’d been trying to hop on the wagon before I went, but that went out of the window almost immediately. On arrival at the luxurious Asimina Hotel in Paphos, abstinence became a distant memory as soon as the champagne appeared. A cocktail or two later and I’d well and truly fallen.

Later in the stay I was treated to a gin-tasting and education session from a very knowledgeable Cypriot chap called George. These sessions can be arranged in advance for guests.

Fortunately, there was food…

Lucky I wasn’t on a diet, as that too would have been all but a distant memory once I stepped over the threshold of one of the four on-site restaurants. The outdoor eatery, nestled in a leafy corner of the resort, was my favourite. 

The terrace restaurant is five star and classy, with low lighting and a medium-sized a la carte menu. A team of international chefs do the cooking, not only of traditional Cypriot dishes but also of Thai and Italian delights. 

Dining under the stars, with a view of the sea, being served exquisite food (the grilled swordfish, and garlic and chilli salmon were especially good), and divine cocktails was a complete joy. The French Martini – vodka, peach juice and Chambord – quickly became my new favourite cocktail.

The second morning, a cookery lesson on the terrace – courtesy of the hotel chef – was fun, despite my slight hangover. We made moussaka Cypriot style (beef and pork instead of lamb) and a veggie version too, made with layers of aubergine and mushroom. That was lunch sorted.

The lush life

Relaxing by one of the two large pools was delightful, and waiter service considerably enhanced the experience. There’s nothing quite as decadent as ordering French Martinis from a supine position and going for dips between sips.

There’s nothing quite as decadent as ordering French Martinis from a supine position and going for dips between sips

The evening view from my suite – no rooms here, just luxury suites, complete with comfortable lounge, kitchen area with a well-stocked mini-bar, sumptuous bedroom with queen size bed and spacious marble-clad bathroom with a gorgeous deep bath and huge shower – was stunning. (Twelve of the 111 suites have their own private sea-view pools.)

From my second floor apartment, I could see terraces, an array of shrubs, flowers, tall palm trees and one of two outdoor pools. A few steps beyond the pools the Mediterranean Sea, edged by the Kato Paphos beach, sparkled as the orange sun dipped into the hazy horizon.

In love with my bathroom

The weather at this time of year (mid-October) was more than clement: a comfortable 25 degrees with a warm and gentle breeze. No jacket required – not even when eating out in the evenings. When it’s cooler, staying in isn’t a bad option as the hotel has an indoor pool and jacuzzi, four bars, a hair salon, a gym, a shop and evening entertainment.

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Historical tours and Cleopatra 

A full day tour took me to the harbour in Paphos where we explored Pafos Castle (a 13th century Byzantine fortress, dismantled by the Venetians and rebuilt by the Ottomans in 1592) and to the Paphos Archaeological Park in Nea Pafos where I – and other tourists – viewed the ancient mosaic floors of Roman ruins (comprising five houses built around the second century and unearthed in the 1980s).

The tiled floors are mostly intact and depicted all kinds of myths, one being the tragic love story of Dionysis and Ariadne, the tale on which Shakespeare allegedly based Romeo And Juliet.

The tour guide explained how Cleopatra’s descendants once ruled Cyprus. She also told us how the pods of the indigenous carob tree, each being exactly the same size and weight as the next, were once used to weigh gold, giving rise to the word ‘carat’.

I learned that cats were brought to the island many years ago to kill off the snakes. (It didn’t work; the island is now home to many species of snake and a whole load of ownerless but very well-fed cats).

Another fascinating fact is that English king, Richard The Lionheart, got married in Cyprus in 1191: the only British royal wedding that’s taken place somewhere other than the UK.

Along the coast, I stopped at Aphrodite’s Rock. Aphrodite – the Greek goddess of love – was said to have been born in Paphos, not in the usual way of course but by emerging from the foam of the sea.

Aphrodite’s Rock, Cyprus. Photo: Dimitris Vetsikas

Wines fit for the Gods

Despite the island’s 6000-year history of wine-making, most Brits aren’t familiar with Cypriot wines. And probably wouldn’t think of Cyprus for wine tasting. An hour by car northwards, by the Troos mountains, was Ktemo Gerolemo, a winery where I keenly sampled an array of Cypriot wines.

Many of the wineries are run by families, who have not yet got into the whole business of export. The white, red and rosé were delicious and surprisingly smooth, the dessert wines were syrupy sweet, and the fiery Cypriot brandy called Zivania (which I necked as a shot, and really shouldn’t have!): it felt so medicinal that I now feel 100% safe from lurgies of all kinds this winter.

The village of Omodos, a little further north, is quaint and hilly with cobbled streets and many cute little shops and restaurants.

The narrow street with the small stone houses, colourful wooden doors and old amphoras, Omodos, Cyprus.

We lunched here – at Stou Kir Yianni – on a decadent, 16 course mezze of Greek salad, spinach pies, Cypriot sausages, chicken kebabs, roast pork and roast potatoes. I learnt something new about myself too – that, after years of disliking them, I suddenly love truffles. Maybe Cypriot ones are different to British ones – I don’t know – but the truffle pasta was out-of-this-world delicious. The mezze was so huge, the tour guide ended up with a takeaway big enough to feed her and her family for at least a week.

Other nights out included champagne at the glitzy rooftop bar at a neighbouring hotel, a meal at Fetta’s Corner in Paphos town, followed by cocktails and shisha at a lively bar until the early hours.

So much for sober October!

Visit the Constantinou Bros Asimina Suites Hotel

If you’re looking for a good value spring break, consider Paphos. And definitely consider this amazing hotel. Winner of over 16 awards in the last two years, the Constantinou Bros Asimina Suites Hotel, Paphos – with prices from £999 for 7 night departures in May 2023 in a Junior Suite land view room on B&B with flights from Gatwick including private transfers – are taking bookings now. (Early booking discount: save 20% for all bookings until 28th February 2023.)

For further information please call the Constantinou Bros Hotels UK Sales office on 01924 380160

Website:  www.cbh-cyprus.com

Jacqui Deevoy

Jacqui Deevoy has been a freelance journalist for over three decades, starting out on teenage magazines, then later working for women’s magazines worldwide, and national newspapers including the Daily Mail, the Mirror, Express and Telegraph. These days, as well as writing for magazines, papers and websites, she produces documentaries and hosts a Monday night talk show for Unprecedented TV.

The post Dreaming of a holiday? Try Cyprus for wine tasting appeared first on Silver Magazine.