Flying out to Zurich it was an unusually clear day. So clear that as we flew over the edge of England I could see my house from the plane. I waved goodbye to Blighty and settled in for the short journey to Switzerland. I was off to review the five star Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, hurrah.

Upon landing, the first thing I discovered was that my phone provider didn’t work in Switzerland. I’d just blindly assumed that I’d automatically get data switched over, but no.

No biggie, I figured, I’d just use the free Wi-Fi that I could see was in the airport. But connecting to the airport Wi-Fi was impossible. Log in here, add this code, no you can’t because you don’t have connectivity, log in here etc.

In the end a fellow traveller did me a hot spot so I could log in and buy some data. So be warned – Switzerland is not in the EU and your phone might not automatically work there. Plan ahead.

Leaving the airport, I was excited about my onward journey, because we had a train ticket to ride. I have a mad passion for train travel. The train was very clean and – we discovered to our amusement – very strictly silent.

In fact, our small group (all women, all quite excited) was roundly told off by a very cross little man who genuinely leapt out of his seat to tap the sign that presumably said “quiet”. We all shut up, trying not to look at each other and giggle.

I was right to be excited though…

I had a first-class ticket, and a first class view of Switzerland as we sped towards our destination. Awe-inspiring mountains rising out of stunning blue lakes, the tops so high they were lost in the clouds. It was thrilling, and I don’t say that lightly. There’s a huge benefit in feeling the power of awe, and the landscape really is awesome.

I could have spent hours on the train. But we arrived at Sargans station all too soon, and were picked up to head to the hotel resort.

Once inside the hotel I was hugely impressed. The lobby is light and airy, with a fantastic art installation of bubbles to represent the natural spa/spring water in the area. It’s upmarket without feeling oppressive. I don’t know how they manage to make such a vast hotel feel so family-run, but that’s how it rolls.

Dogs are allowed, which always makes me happy. And also kids, which I’m generally less enthusiastic about, if I’m honest. The resort is very much geared up for children though, unusual for a spa hotel like this, and I think actually it’s a nice idea. There’s a Kindervilla on site, for the children to hang out in during the daytime, as well as plenty of babysitters.

There’s also a children’s Heidi-themed spa area. So although the little darlings are allowed at the hotel, you don’t get them killing the chill in the adult spa zones. I don’t really mind kids. But don’t want them squawking next to me in the jacuzzi.

Also, something that one finds increasingly these days, despite the hotel having five stars and a very luxurious offering, guests were dressed quite informally. Not scruffy, you understand. Just in a relaxed fashion – which I totally appreciate. I’m done with heels and uncomfortable clothing these days.

My suite was a total corker

The view from my balcony

The suite was vast, situated at the front of the hotel with breathtaking views across the mountains. Standing on the balcony staring at the scenery whilst soft rain pattered around me was a quiet moment of bliss that I can still feel now if I close my eyes.

On my desk I found a gorgeous little selection of sweet and savoury snacks. And I was also delighted to find a very well-stocked fridge and snack zone. Decent gin and tonic! Big tick.

Another word to the wise: I’d felt very smug remembering to bring my UK to Europe plug adaptor, but guess what?! The plugs in Switzerland are different. At our hotel the concierge had a bunch of them you could borrow, and almost everyone in our (British) group needed one. But something to be aware of.

Standing on the balcony staring at the scenery whilst soft rain pattered around me was a quiet moment of bliss

In the afternoon we’d been due to have a tour of the outside art installations, part of the Bad RagARTz exhibition, which happens once every three years. It’s a region-wide showcase, with art, sculptures and statues dotted everywhere. Worth planning a trip around this to see it, if you’re thinking of heading here. But it was raining, so instead we relaxed, had a tour of the hotel resort, including the Kindervilla, and got ready for dinner.

As I was dressing for dinner, a storm broke out over the mountains. Storms always excite me – it was quite something, thunder and lightning over the mountains. I watched it for a bit, spellbound.

Around the resort

The Grand Resort is home to several very lovely restaurants, as well as a health and medical centre, dental centre, and of course the spa. There’s even a take-away sushi kiosk, KOiSO, which I confess to ordering twice from during my stay.

The resort is a centre of medicine and wellness, not just a place for a massage and dip in the water. There are doctors here practicing in everything from orthopaedics, traumatology and vascular disease to mental health, dental health, and Chinese medicine.

There’s also a full-service plastic surgery department, sports therapy clinic, rehab centre, nutrition clinics… you name it, it’s probably at the resort. One could absolutely have a face lift and tummy tuck, and hide out here in the mountains to recover, having regular massages, therapies, and swimming in the various pools. Have put this on my mental wish list for in a few years’ time.

Our first night, and we met in the elegant lobby for cocktails

I’ve had beautifully-made cocktails in places all over the world (she said smugly) but the mixologists here are amongst the very best I’ve experienced. Exquisitely crafted drinks, gorgeous choice of glassware – a very good start to the evening.

Namun is their Asian-inspired restaurant, and where we ate on our first night. The joy of travelling in a small group means you get to order a la carte, rather than have a set menu, which can happen if you’re in a bigger group. I had Thai prawn summer rolls, and a mix of dim sum including dumplings, melt-in-the-mouth Wagyu beef, and various gyoza.

Sadly I couldn’t manage any pudding, but I did choose some sake from their extensive sake-specific menu. And by the time dinner was over, I was ready to drop. The food was magic, and I slept like a baby.

Deliciousness at Namun

Next morning the sun had broken through…

And I was chuffed to bits that I’d ordered breakfast in my room. I leapt out of bed – well, maybe not leapt, but rose enthusiastically – and before even having a cup of tea, bolted downstairs to the outside pool. I’d seen it the day before, and was desperate to get in it, to swim with that phenomenal backdrop, and make the most of the dry weather. It was heavenly.

Back up to my room and my breakfast trolley had been delivered. This for me is the height of dining delight – to eat indulgently in the privacy of my own room. I made a point of having the ‘<<verve>>’ special, so named after the resort’s Michelin-starred restaurant. If you’re interested, it’s crispy sourdough toast, with a tomato jam, and lovage whipped tofu cream, topped with poached eggs and baby salad leaves. I could have done without the jam, very sweet. But the whippy tofu stuff was magic.

Outdoor pool; <<verve>> breakfast; spa relaxation area

I was booked in for the ‘Pause and Reset’ treatment – an 80-minute aromatherapy full body workover that is “specifically designed to help ease the side effects of hormonal changes.” I don’t know about that, but I do know that I could barely stand when I got off the bed. Can’t remember the last time I felt so relaxed.

After that it was a short stagger to the spa area, where I bobbed about in the fabulous body-temperature swimming pool, before somehow making my way to my room for a short siesta. Nice to be able to wander around in my robe. It’s one of the nicest and oddest things about fancy spa hotels, I find. Fortunately I had the presence of mind to grab sushi to take up to my room. Because once I landed there, I was wiped out! Siesta time…

The afternoon saw a few activities before dinner…

Post-lunch, members of our group pottered around the local area. For me it was a chance to take in some of the outdoor art installations, and also have a little mooch around the little village next to the resort. Some of the group went to the Tamina Gorge, the source of the 36.5° C warm thermal waters that have made Bad Ragaz world famous.

‘Bad’ by the way, means ‘bath’, in case you were wondering. I didn’t know that until I came here, and I’d thought Bad Ragaz sounded a bit like a rapper’s name. But now we both know.

In the evening we were lucky enough to eat at verve by Sven, the Michelin-starred restaurant on site. I’d been excited about this since we arrived, and made the most of the exciting menu. For starter I had tomato, redcurrant, basil, and pine nut burrata plate, which was outstanding. Then for main course, a few of us shared the frankly astonishing seared beef cutlets with hoisin jus, served with seared lettuce and other bits.

A beef encounter

I know, not very adventurous in a place with a star. But frankly I think you can judge a restaurant by its steaks, eggs, custards, and sauces. I’m going to say it’s a yes from me here. The beef was meltingly delish. I wish I had two stomachs.

Our final day…

And I woke up to breakfast in my room again. I went all-out this time. Eggs, crispy bacon, caviar and a little bottle of Ruinart, my favourite champagne. How could I not?!

Oh well, if you insist

Once we’d checked out, we had a trip to Heidi’s Village, which was as surreal and adorable as you might imagine. Although Heidi is a fictional character, the stories are set in the region, and Heidi’s Village is only a short 10 min ride from the hotel. There are goats, natch. And they’ve created the houses that Heidi and all the other book characters would have lived in. It’s a bit nuts, but very endearing. It’s perfect for children who know the stories.

The Grand Resort Bad Ragaz is a great place for multigenerational trips because it’s one of the only places in the world that I’m aware of that accommodates kids at an upmarket spa hotel.

Plenty of childcare, coupled with the children’s spa and pool areas, mean that you can take your kids and grandkids there and not have to sacrifice your own peaceful experience. Or enable your darling offspring to annoy other guests. And when you’re not in the hotel, there’s plenty to do within a short hop from the resort.

I loved the place, and wished I could have stayed longer. The food was exemplary, and the service and facilities faultless. I didn’t want to come home!

Now, to start planning my next visit there…

Grand Resort Bad Ragaz
Rates: high season, rooms and suites from 750CHF (Swiss francs) per night. A suite like mine is around 1,100CHF (£990) per night
‘Pause and Reset’ treatment 295CHF (£265)
Tasting menu at verve by Sven 120CHF (£116)
Return flight Heathrow-Zurich is around £200-300 off peak, but you can easily double that in high season

Sam Harrington-Lowe

Sam is Silver’s founder and editor-in-chief. She’s largely responsible for organising all the things, but still finds time to do the odd bit of writing. Not enough though. Send help.

The post Five star treatment at the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz – review appeared first on Silver Magazine.

After a life-changing retreat to Kalukanda House, Harriet Forde turned 60 and ditched her 36-year career in interior design for an exploration of food and a more holistic lifestyle. We spoke to her about the transformational journey, and about the retreat. And now we want to go too.

Do you even know who you are anymore?

The emotional fallout over the last few years has made a retreat from the fast pace and crushing pressure of the ever-growing, extremely demanding, corporate world particularly appealing. But knowing whether to alter your actual career can be difficult to figure out.

The career change is something that had been brewing for a long time

Your identity may be rooted in a working environment if you have been in one line of work for many years. Discovering who you are, without that foundation, may seem daunting and make it harder to know when to move on.

Harriet Forde is an interior and textile designer, mother of two, wife, and founder of Harriet Forde Design. Approaching 60, Harriet felt that she was ready for change. But it was her stay at Kalukanda House that truly allowed space for reflection. And gave her a clearer perspective on the way forward.

“The career change is something that had been brewing for a long time,” she says. “Staying at Kalukunda house reinforced the need to let go of the old and create space for the new.”

Harriet’s experience

Harriet Forde

While being a successful entrepreneur, Harriet has always enjoyed the moments of “me time” she has got from cooking, yoga, travelling, massage, meditation and reading. Yet it was her experience at this retreat that was the pivotal moment in her journey to her new career in food and nutrition.

She described the retreat as “perfectly put together,” and great for those who need some time out to be surrounded by like-minded creatives. Harriet explained that each activity had its benefits: “Doing yoga every day was definitely a plus for my body – I loved the stretch! The gong bath and cacao ceremony are still clearly in my mind seven months later. The massage was amazing too… I knew I needed this week of unapologetic devotion to my body.”

Harriet explained she took part in the Journey to the Heart retreat because it called to her and everything she craved. She had no nerves when embarking on this journey because she had so much faith in the people and the process. She knew one of the founders, Dee Gibson, and decided it was the right call for her.

“Dee described the programme and I felt it chime with me. I needed time out, and to be surrounded by like-minded creatives.  I have done several retreats before and so I had an idea about what works for me – this looked like it would.”

She described Dee as a good person and a top host for the retreat. Harriet recommends the experiences to all travellers, especially solo ones.

“I knew I needed this week of unapologetic devotion to my body.”

Ultimately, it is simple. The space gave her time to breathe, away from the chaos and emotional turmoil the past through years have put us through. The healing and revelations that came from Kalukanda House, and all that it has to offer and nurture, finally gave her the momentum she needed to plan her new ventures with the Slow Food movement.

Read more: The healing power of horses helped mend my heartbreak

What is Kalukanda House?

Founder, Dee Gibson

Sri Lanka is a well-known hotspot for beautiful beaches to relax and unwind on, which can make it a rather busy destination. However, if you travel south to the sandy coast of Weligama, you will uncover many hidden gems, such as the shallow coral reefs, the prized Taprobane Island, and Kalukanda House.

The designers have created decadent rooms to “nourish your heart and soul.” The handcrafted beds, fluffy pillows, organic toiletries, and deluxe power showers emphasise the importance of rest and rejuvenation while supporting local craftspeople. Every morning you can open the hand-carved shutters to reveal a jungle garden bursting with song and endemic wildlife.

The yoga shala and pool are great areas to uplift your spirit through exercise, conversation, or daydreaming, set against blue sky and palm trees or candle-lit dusk. The landscape is a slice of paradise, watched over by an ancient (some may say magical!) Bodhi Tree. It is a safe space in which to lose yourself, and a place where you ultimately find a deeper sense of who you want to become.

Relaxing at the pool at Kalukanda House

What happens at the retreat?

They apply a personally tailored program to dedicate your day to individual healing and guided wellness practices. You will be part of an intimate group of six to eight women. This will help you to find comfort, strength, and security during uncertain times. As you take part in consultations with wellness practitioners and engage in yoga, meditation, and body treatments, the aim is to listen to your inner silence to unlock your highest potential and find a new grounding for the new challenges ahead of you.

“It is a safe space in which to lose yourself, and a place where you ultimately find a deeper sense of who you want to become.”

You will spend your mornings engaging in yoga, meditation, and breathwork, followed by breakfast. Afterwards, they encourage you to converse, journal, and reflect with the others. You then have some downtime to explore the village via the abundance of tuk-tuks, or surf and scuba with trained professionals. Then it is time for lunch, freshly prepared by the on-site chef using locally sourced ingredients.

Your afternoons are spent having a massage or ayurvedic consultation, followed by a gong bath, cacoa ceremony, or reiki. Then there is time for more meditation and finally dinner, drinks, and snacks. It truly is the most luxurious dip into experimental travel.

Yoga at Kalukanda House

How have things changed for Harriet?

In the spirit of taking each day as it comes, Harriet’s new plan is ever-evolving. Which, at the age of 60, she is delighted about. After taking a deep dive into herself and reconnecting her head with her heart, Harriet realised she needed a complete break from her old career in interior design to give space for the new.

“I have continued experimenting in my own kitchen with food, fermentation, and foraging. I have completed a short writing course with producing copy in mind. As well as this, I have joined the Slow Food movement and looked into a variety of NGO organisations in the UK to do with sustainability and food education to see what chimes with me.”

And, inspired by the vast array of delicious meals she enjoyed in Sri Lanka, Harriet has joined the ZOE nutrition programme. This has allowed her to better understand how what she eats, affects her body. Which will maintain the wellbeing she gained from her time at Kalukanda House.

Harriet’s essentials for the trip of a lifetime

We will leave it up to you to pack the basics. But here are a few extras you may not think of:

• Noise cancelling headphones for the plane journey
• An inspiring book
• An idea for a piece of jewellery to be made in Galle
• A set of very open senses – “the smells, tastes, and sounds of Sri Lanka need to be soaked up.”

Kalukanda House at night

If you are looking to make a positive social impact, here are some more details…

Journey to the Heart December 2023

Register here: stay@kalukandahouse.com

Special inaugural retreat only price of $412 (per person)

Private room – $520 (per person)

Twin room – $260 (per person)

Note: $50 per guest is donated to a local charity empowering women and girls

Beth Pratt

Beth is one of Silver’s interns. She loves reading and studying literature. Entering her final year of university, Beth still finds time to dance, swim, and have a pint with friends. Her favourite hobby is going to coffee shops, if you can call it a hobby!

The post How a life-changing retreat transformed this 60-year-old’s life appeared first on Silver Magazine.