I’m lured by luxury travel, luscious food and wine, and lazing around in the spa. So I was thrilled to discover all of the above – and more – when I went to explore Cognac.

What is the difference between cognac and brandy? Do you know? For those who don’t (and I didn’t before I went), all cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is cognac. Only brandy from the Cognac region is called cognac. And it has to follow a distinct set of distillation and ageing processes.

I was in Cognac to learn about cognac and visit the distilleries. Moving around the region, all the big names jump out at you from every winding road through the vineyards: Martell, Rémy Martin, Courvoisier, Hennessy… but there are loads of smaller independent producers too. The region supports both – those vineyards not big enough to make their own cognac sell their grapes to the big houses.

Cognac Vineyards, Petite Champagne, Charente-Maritime

Employment and the economy in the area is hugely driven by the industry – that and tourism. In 2024, there were over 4,400 winegrowers, 120 professional distillers and 270 merchants operating within the Cognac area. And many of the Cognac houses are still family-owned.

Many – probably most – offer some kind of tour and tasting experience. I was lucky enough to visit (in order) Chateau Montifaud, Hennessy, Delamain, and Rémy Martin. They’re all hugely different, with each visit offering a completely unique experience.

Visiting Cognac

The Cognac region is about halfway down France on the lefthand side. The closest airports are Bordeaux and La Rochelle, but you can reach the area by train and road. I’d recommend hiring a car as it’s a rural region.

Arriving into Bordeaux after a very quick hop and a skip from Gatwick (it’s less than two hours in the air), I was very pleased to see that we were immediately headed for lunch. If there’s one thing – of many things – the French do extremely well, it’s lunch. And I was not disappointed.

Lunch at Restaurant Cave La Quincaillerie

Weaving our way into one of those tiny little restaurants you might easily pass, on an ancient street flanked with shuttered houses, we headed upstairs at Restaurant Cave La Quincaillerie for their set lunch. This little cave of joy is in the Michelin Guide, and deservedly so. An hour or so later, I was happily stuffed with melty goat’s cheese on toast, slow cooked pork with pommes puree, and a greedy plate of cheese from the trolley, all washed down with a bottle of excellent Sancerre.

What a way to kick off the trip. Rubbing my fat tummy, I climbed back into the charabanc for our next stop, Chateau Montifaud.

Chateau Montifaud is a family-owned house that has been with the family Vallet for six generations, notching up more than 150 years of experience. We had a lovely tour, bumbling around the distillery learning about the processes. Nice touch with this tour was having a cocktail shaker handed to us at the start, and with each stage of the tour, a new ingredient added, relative to the information of the moment, resulting in a good shaking at the end of the tour, and a lovely cognac-based cocktail to quaff.

Chateau Montifaud

Where I stayed

After such a good lunch, and more than a little sampling of cognacs at Montifaud, I was pleased to arrive at our hotel, and even more pleased when I saw my absolutely stunning room.

Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa is a gorgeous five-star property right in the heart of Cognac. Sprawling across a wide area, the house used to be a distillery, and the hotel buildings are all comprised of the former cellars, cooperage, ageing halls (chais) etc. The conversion has been beautifully handled, and the property is rich with the tapestry of its history. It has a relaxing spa area complete with inside/outside pool, and several spaces in which to eat and drink in luxury. It’s also a perfect base from which to explore the Cognac region.

My fabulous room at Hotel Chais Monnet Hotel & Spa

After a bit of very welcome down time to digest and unpack, we were treated to an absolutely majestic tasting menu at the hotel’s Michelin starred restaurant, Les Foudres. Course after course came out, delivered with theatrical aplomb, interspersed with amuse-bouches and palette cleansers, and every course paired with a beautiful wine. It was a masterclass in quality and delivery, and it very nearly had me beaten.

Up the next morning and still feeling full…

I launched a rather pathetic attack at some coffee and a skirmish with an egg before we hit the road to visit Maison Hennessy. And what a wild trip this was. I had expected to view the cellars, try some cognacs, hear some history, and we did have all that. What I wasn’t expecting was a fantastic mind-bending virtual reality trip through the Hennessy journey with full AR headsets on, a boat ride over the river to the Hennessy cellars, and a chance to visit the cooperage and watch an apprentice cooper make a barrel from scratch.

An excellent morning at Hennessy

Hennessy is one of the few houses left that have a cooperage on site. And the mathematical and physical balance it takes to make a cask without glue, bind it all together with metal hoops, heat it and bend it to fit, and get the lid on with all its groovy grooves… my little mind was blown. Yours truly, being the sort that gets stuck in, even had a go on the ratchety machine thing that draws the slats together. This was a bit of a once-in-a-lifetime kind of morning – I will forever be able to say that there are glasses of H-dawg circulating that has been laid in a barrel I helped make.

After all this activity, we had a tasting – got to love quaffing Hennessy XO at 10am – and we finished up, sitting in the Hennessy café, eating cognac and raisin ice cream. And this brings me to an important point.

The French aren’t fussy about how you drink your cognac

The French take their food and drink pretty seriously, as we all know. So what I hadn’t expected was to find that absolutely no one is precious about how to drink cognac. They’re happy to adulterate it with water, mixers, ice… There was almost no balloon swirling or pontificating.

The most popular way for the locals to drink it – if they drink it at all, mostly it’s exported – is as a long drink with tonic water and ice. And this is nicer than it sounds. There are all sorts of cocktail variations using cognac. My favourite was a margarita with the tequila swapped out.

Back to the hotel for lunch in their La Distillerie restaurant, and conscious of making such a poor fist of breakfast, I went large on lunch. I felt it my duty to ensure that I tested out their skills. So, appetite sharpened by Hennessy intake, I had canapes, a melange of salmon things, and duck that was so fresh it nearly flew away off my plate.

Lunch at La Distillerie

After a necessary post-prandial forty winks, we were back at the hotel’s excellent bar, the 1838, for a cocktail masterclass. Remember when I said the French weren’t prissy about the cognac? Well, here was more proof, pun intended. Using the local fire water, we made cognac Sidecars, Negronis, and Margaritas. Then got a fantastic tour of the bar, including all the secret back bar areas.

Making (and drinking) cognac cocktails in 1838 Bar

Then into the hotel’s minibus for a short trip to Poulpette, a tiny gem of a restaurant tucked away in Cognac village. Another restaurant that you can find in the Michelin Guide, one of those absolute treasures that has a small but perfectly formed menu. I loved that they had no traditional wine list but all the wines you could order lined up on a shelf, with the price handwritten on the bottle. Like browsing a grapey library, you could have a good nose before choosing.

The restaurant is small enough to feel like you’re having a dinner party with friends. And once I’d shovelled in homemade tarama, a slab of foie gras with a giant oyster mushroom in a citron bouillon, line-caught cod with chorizo and veggies, and (ye gods) a selection of ices – chocolat, marron, saki, sesame – I could barely even breathe. What a way to go though. Have you seen La Grande Bouffe?!

Dinner at Poulpette

Day three

Today kicked off with a trip to the spa at around 11am for a massage and some relaxing time kicking around in the pool. What a cracking way to start the day, and a really good massage too. Having worked up an appetite, er, lazing around in the jacuzzi, we had another utterly dreamy lunch at the hotel’s La Distillerie restaurant, before walking the short distance from the hotel to Rémy Martin.

Rather than visiting a vineyard this time, we were in the Remy historic house and boutique in the centre of Cognac itself. And this was a very slick, almost clinical look at Remy, its history, its artwork, and ultimately a chance to taste its cognac. Paired with dark chocolate truffles, my favourite was the XO (obviously I have expensive tastes). This tour was again completely different to both Chateau Montifaud and Hennessy, and I appreciated that. If all the tours had been the same, it would have felt less special, and less interesting.

Learning history (and tasting cognac) at Rémy Martin

In the early evening we embarked on an extraordinary trip into the countryside, firstly via Maison Delamain, who had laid on a beautiful ‘candle’ lit tasting with oysters and heavenly meaty snacks. It’s a real privilege to see the old distilleries like this, and I urge anyone visiting the area to get to a few different houses. The rich history of Delamain is matched only by the quality of its cognac. Even I was beginning to develop something of a palette for it by this stage.

L-C Chateau Delamain private tasting in the cellars, and R tasting pineau and watching the show at Cognaço Musica

On from Delamain to Distillerie Pinard Frères, in Jarnac, not for a tasting this time, per se, but for a singularly unique theatrical performance, Cognaço Musica. An immersive experience combining music, theatre and (yay) tastings of both pineau (the grape-must drink that’s kind of the stage before cognac), and cognac itself. Although I had very little idea what was going on, it was hugely entertaining. And it’s part of a wider cultural celebration that takes place each autumn, the Ban de la Distillation. It’s a two-day festival of the cultural heritage of the Cognac region, celebrating producers, makers and visitors through tastings, talks and experiences.

Our final port of call was for dinner this evening was Restaurant du Chateau a Jarnac – one of those quintessentially French restaurants that do literally everything properly. And I didn’t even have to think about the arduous task of ordering dinner – they’d laid on a special menu for us: a cognac/bubbles cocktail, fish soup, salmon fillet with creamy risotto, and cognac cake with pears and ice cream. Thank you, and good night.

Dinner at Restaurant du Chateau a Jarnac

Why go to Cognac?

Like much of France, this is a region that really shines when it comes to food and drink. But it’s a particular pilgrimage for those who really want to dig into cognac. The area is understandably saturated with it, literally and figuratively. I had an absolute whale of a time learning about the processes at the various houses we visited, as well as drinking a lot of cognac and eating a lot of stunning food.

It is always a real treat to eat at the little restaurants that you know are always tucked away in ancient French villages but not always easy to find. So if you head to the area, take my advice and try all of the eateries I went to. Also try the cognac and tonic – it works better than you’d expect, I promise.

Everything we ate and drank was faultless, although I did gain about half a stone in the space of about four days, but it was well worth it. And base yourself at the Hotel Chais Monnet and Spa for a real treat. Frankly, I never wanted to leave.

DETAILS

Explore Cognac www.explore-cognac.com
Hotel Chais Monnet Hotel & Spa
Restaurant Cave La Quincaillerie
Chateau Montifaud
Maison Hennessy
Poulpette
Rémy Martin
Chateau Delamain
Ban de la Distillation
Restaurant du Chateau a Jarnac

Sam Harrington-Lowe

Sam is Silver’s founder and editor-in-chief. She’s largely responsible for organising all the things, but still finds time to do the odd bit of writing. Not enough though. Send help.

The post Exploring Cognac. Hidden wonders and a feast for the senses appeared first on Silver Magazine.

Stephen ‘Paynie’ Payne talks about how he threw caution to the wind – quite literally – by impulse-buying a boat, setting sail on a European adventure, and completely changing his life in the process. Proving you’re never too old to learn new things. Either that, or hurrah for a brilliant midlife adventure/crisis!

[All images provided by Stephen Payne]

Stephen Payne

To be honest, I’m not doing well with this whole ‘silver’ thing. Not long ago, I got an email inviting me to join the AARP. For those who don’t know, that’s the American Association of Retired Persons – worst of all, I’m not even American.

And the other day, a damn teenager offered me their seat on a bus. This does not make me happy. In my mind, I’m still 38. But if I write this, I guess there’s no going back and I’ll be officially old. Excuse me while I shake my stick in the air.

My impulse purchase

In January 2020, I was relatively unhappy with UK politics. I’m not one to sit on my laurels and fret, so I bought a boat. Before I took this action, my knowledge of boating could be written on a relatively small postcard, but on 7 January 2020, I made a silly offer on a boat and, lo and behold, it was accepted.

Before I took this action, my knowledge of boating could be written on a relatively small postcard

By “boat”, I don’t mean a real boat. I mean a boat with motors. No stick. No rag. But you can’t really sail on the River Thames anyway, so it fitted my needs well. Then it occurred to me that I needed to take the boat somewhere that wasn’t England. France was only 21 miles away.

Bray Marina, UK

So, I started the process of gaining the documentation and knowledge required to exit the UK, cross the channel, and traverse France all the way to the Mediterranean. You need appropriate insurance, an International Certificate of Competence, which is attained by passing the CEVNI test (that stands for Code Europeen des Voies de Navigation Interieure, in case you’re interested). And a resounding belief that anything is possible. Simples.

So… I’m doing the impossible…

At 2:30pm on Saturday 26 June, I exited Ramsgate Marina for the last time. My adventure had officially commenced. Four hours later, I was in France. I paused in the lovely town of Calais for a few days to get my bearings, before setting off south towards Paris. On the boat.

Crossing to Calais

Crossing to Calais

My adventure was paused slightly in the city of St Omer because a large lock gate was being replaced, so I took the opportunity to get to know France better. I bought a bicycle and explored the local hood. A major problem with France is that the bread and baguettes are so delicious that it’s tempting to just eat them instead of actual meals. But I have almost infinite willpower and ate some other foodstuffs as well.

While I was there, I shot a music video for one of my neighbours. And that ended up paying for my entire stay and a full tank of diesel.

St Omer

On Thursday 19 August 2021, I arrived in Paris. My intention was to spend one week there, but it was so nice, I stayed for six weeks. My home base was the Paris Arsenal Marina, just south of the Bastille. It costs about €45 a night, but considering my location, that seemed relatively inexpensive. While I was there, I shot a music video for one of my neighbours. And that ended up paying for my entire stay and a full tank of diesel.

Before embarking on this adventure, I tuned up my filmmaking skills and created a YouTube channel. I did this because I like making little films. And I like to encourage people to do stuff out of their comfort zone. No one ever died thinking they should have been less adventurous. Well, maybe a couple of people, but they’re probably not with us anymore, and at least they died happy(ish).

Just north of Paris

The high point of Paris was a trip to the top of the Eiffel Tower. I’ve been to Paris many times before, but never made it up there. It’s mind-blowingly beautiful.

You’ve probably heard that the French are not as friendly as they could be. Let me dispel that myth right away. The French people were amazingly friendly and helpful. I never came across one bad attitude the whole time I was there. However, the thing about journeys is you have to keep moving. By the end of September, it was time to leave my new favourite city and continue the voyage south.

Time to leave Paris…

I paused in Chartrettes in the Île-de-France region, waiting for my friend Beanie to join me, then we headed south again. You do not need two people on board to negotiate French waterways, but a second pair of hands is useful when transiting through locks. Useful, but not essential.

I became quite adept at manoeuvring through locks solo. I’d probably only negotiated four or five locks before I hit France. I scooted my way through 216 of them before I got to the Mediterranean.

Central France

Another pause was taken in Montargis in the Centre-Val de Loire Région because of bridge maintenance. We nabbed a great mooring spot in the middle of town. Someone from the VNF, France’s navigation authority, popped by to let me know I could stay as long as I needed and they would provide free power and water. To use French waterways, you need a vignette that costs €126 per month. Total bargain.

Montargis

Many people have asked me how much I spent on diesel and the answer is that I really don’t know. I never kept track of it because what would be the point? It’s not like I could do it cheaper, so I saved time by not bothering to work it out. If I had to guess, I probably used less than one litre per kilometre. If there was some distance between locks, I turned off one motor. It really didn’t need much throttle to stick to the four-knot speed limit.

Finally hitting the sea down South…

Other notable stops along the way were Briare, Nevers, Chalon-sur-Saone, Lyon and Viviers. France is a wonderful country and I highly recommend it, especially by boat. Don’t worry if, like me, your initial boating skills could be written on a postcard. It’s quite easy to rent a boat and spend a week on the water learning a new skill.

It took me a year to reach salty water again. It could’ve taken less time to reach the Mediterranean, but I didn’t buy a boat to get places fast. I might be a little old, but I’m not dead yet and have more skills to learn. Maybe I’ll try BASE jumping. Maybe not.

Despite my earlier remarks, I might not actually have unlimited willpower. It might be safer to stick to boating, filmmaking, and photography…

Photography: Paynie.net

Stephen Payne

Stephen J Payne was born in Torquay Devon, quite a long time ago. He got out of there fast and moved to London, becoming a photographer for the music papers and the London Evening Standard. Retaining his love of music, he directed many music videos and live concert films, eventually moving to Los Angeles in 1991. He returned to Blighty in 2018, and after drinking too much coffee, or cocktails, he bought a boat.

The post You’re never too old, and it’s never too late appeared first on Silver Magazine.

For many, retiring is an opportunity to travel for longer and further than they felt able to while their career was in full swing. Of course, it often takes some careful planning in the years beforehand to decide what goals you want to tick off first. So where are your perfect holiday destinations?

It’s a great time to look around for ideas and decide which countries you want to see first. 

After more inspiration? See our top five holiday ideas for older travellers

Japan 

A trip to Japan rarely disappoints. This country is in a completely different world, a blend of technological sophistication with ancient charm. Tokyo is extremely clean, orderly and full of quirky new experiences, like themed cafes. An Alice in Wonderland café, Shaun the Sheep café and Harry Potter café are all in the vicinity, to name a few. 

Other cities to include in your trip to Japan are Kyoto – the capital of the country before Tokyo – and Osaka. Here you’ll find many beautiful historic temples and castles, the most representative of which is Osaka Castle, a stunning building surrounded by a garden that boasts over 600 cherry trees and a tea house. 

New Zealand

New Zealand is a natural paradise that never ceases to amaze. Geysers, hot springs and volcanic landscape come together to offer you endless stunning panoramas. Why not also take a boat tour through the spectacular Waitomo glow worm caves?

New Zealand is such a remote destination that many people don’t feel they have time to cross it off the bucket list when they’re working full-time. Retirement could be the ideal opportunity.

Italy 

Although the most touristy cities are busy all year round, the lakes in northern Italy offer a quieter experience. It’s hard to find a destination that rivals the romance and escapism of the Italian lakes.

Just south of the Alps, there’s Lake Como, Lake Maggiore and Lake Garda, among others. The climate here is mild, so you’ll see plenty of olive trees and Mediterranean cypress trees. Sail on the lakes and sip wine to your heart’s content on an evening.

France 

If wine is your thing, you’ve got to take a trip to France. The region of Bordeaux forms the largest fine wine vineyard in the world, and there are five wine routes you can follow to get the most out of it. Elsewhere in France, you can also take the Burgundy wine route, Champagne wine route and Provence wine route.

France is also dotted with fairytale landscapes and castles to explore. To get the best of the climate and relax in the sunshine, don’t miss out on a stay in the French Riviera. 

Iceland

Everyone should see the northern lights at least once, if they can. Though they don’t always appear on schedule, it’s worth visiting Iceland between September and April to try. It’s very easy to take tours out into the Icelandic countryside and see volcanoes, stunning waterfalls, geysers and glaciers. 

Base yourself in the most northerly capital city in the world, Reykjavik, and explore this perfectly contained city. It’s a highly walkable area of boutiques, heritage museums and seafood restaurants. Ascend Hallgrimskirkja for a panoramic view of the city and the Atlantic Ocean.

It’s never too late to see countries you’ve always wanted to see! Don’t be afraid to branch out and go somewhere completely new once you’ve retired.

silvermagazine

If you’d like to receive a regular mini-magazine direct to your inbox with a selection of editorial features to read at your leisure, please sign up for our newsletter. We also run the odd competition and offer and whatnot, and newsletter members get the heads-up first.

The post Exploring the perfect holiday destinations ideas appeared first on Silver Magazine.

The weather is mild, school holidays are over, and the days are still long. A September city break is the perfect short trip to satisfy your travel cravings. These extraordinary European capitals are easy to get to, and full of rich culture to fill a weekend.

Read more: Four of the best destinations for your must-see list

Amsterdam, Netherlands

Just 250 miles from the UK coastline, Amsterdam is one of the most convenient options for a European city break. You can reach Amsterdam via cruises from Southampton and by ferry from the east coast, or flights run frequently from most UK airports.

With a reasonably small centre, Amsterdam is easily explored during a long weekend. Cycling is a popular mode of transport here, or you can sail your way around the city on the iconic canal network. There is a variety of museums and galleries to visit including Anne Frank’s house and the Van Gogh Museum, while just outside of the centre you will find idyllic windmill-dotted countryside. 

Paris, France

Also easily reached is Paris. Flights and ferries are again an option, or Londoners can take advantage of the Eurostar train from St. Pancras which reaches Paris in just 2.5 hours.

France’s capital is utterly magnificent, from the grandiose buildings that lines the wide boulevards, to the exquisite cuisine that is praised the world over. Climbing to the top of the Eiffel Tower is a must for your itinerary, as is a trip to the Louvre and the city’s other world-class art galleries. Break up your sightseeing with strolls in the picturesque city parks, and a delicious cake at an authentic patisserie.

Budapest, Hungary

Slightly further afield but well-worth the flight is Budapest, capital of Hungary. This destination has risen in popularity in recent years and has benefitted greatly from the influx of tourists.

The city is divided down the middle by a broad river, with ‘Buda’ on one side and ‘Pest’ on the other. Elaborate bridges connect one to the other, and you can even stand between them by visiting the tranquil Margaret Island. Highlights of a city break in Budapest include the majestic architecture, notably the parliament building and St. Stephen’s Basilica, and the huge Szechenyi thermal baths.

Lisbon, Portugal

Seeking the catch the last of the summer sunshine? Get on a plane to Lisbon which enjoys temperatures up to the mid-twenties all the way into October. 

Portugal’s coastal capital is another destination that has seen a spike in visitors in recent years. Its sheer beauty attracts tourists of all ages, although older travellers may find the hilly terrain tiring. The riverside region of Belém is a favourite spot because of its laidback atmosphere and historic highlights such as the gothic Jerónimos Monastery. Make sure to stop off for a traditional Portuguese custard tart at the popular Pastéis de Belém.

silvermagazine

If you’d like to receive a regular mini-magazine direct to your inbox with a selection of editorial features to read at your leisure, please sign up for our newsletter. We also run the odd competition and offer and whatnot, and newsletter members get the heads-up first.

The post Four best European capitals for a September city break appeared first on Silver Magazine.