And they’re not wrong; 20 degrees, blue sky, sea warm enough to get in without completely the ability to breathe, and even coming back with a tan line. But is it worth the five hour flight? In short: yes. But there’s definitely a few things to note…

Me and my wonderful best friend searched Lastminute, scouring for an affordable December holiday, some much-needed rest before the height of holiday season. Working in hospitality and events is a lot this time of year.

We wanted sun, but we were on a bit of a budget. Neither of us have any particular pull to Dubai, and South America and Asia are a little too far for a long weekend.

So why did we choose Cyprus?

Apart from the fact that with careful booking, this little holiday cost us a very respectable £150 each, we got nicely timed flights from Gatwick to Paphos and back, and a two bed apartment about a 20 minute walk from the main strip.

This was both our first time visiting the island so we didn’t know what to expect. We knew it was going to be low season, but we weren’t sure how much so. Would there just be locals, immigrants and expats, or would there be lots of tourists too? We also wondered if there was going to be an overwhelming amount of British people since it’s definitely a place that has been British-ified.

Cyprus from the air

We stepped off the plane at Paphos airport, which was small with parts still being built, from what we could tell (a recurring theme, as you will find out). From the landing strip to the walk inside, you could see brown hills spanning everywhere you looked, with dotted green trees. It was still a very Mediterranean landscape but it reminded me of hills from Chihuahua in Mexico. A welcome change from England’s cold, grey skies.

The first day, it rained

Not Mediterranean storm rain, but a smattering. Met Office hadn’t mentioned rain, and we quickly learnt not to trust the forecast. I’d say take a light raincoat though. Luckily it stopped pretty quickly, and the sun made an appearance.

The flight time from Gatwick was estimated for around 4.5 hours but it felt like we were landing for about an hour. You have to do a loop around the island to get to Paphos airport and it just felt endless. A cab via Bolt (their version of Uber) set us back €38 so not too bad. There is a bus, the 612, but it was too confusing to understand when it was coming, and we wanted to get in the sun as soon as we could.

The sun in Cyprus is in the sky for much the same time as England for winter daylight…

…maybe a little earlier in the morning, but by 5pm it’s dark, and pretty cold. It’s still 16/17 degrees but it’s definitely not micro shorts and summer vest weather.

We were staying at Arthemus Cynthia Complex which has 6/7 blocks of rooms and apartments, and four pools. I can imagine every pool is packed in the summer, but they weren’t heated and were colder than the sea. So there were a few sparse tourists (and some cats) sunbathing, but no one swimming.

I don’t know what you’d pay in high season, but for a two bed with a nice balcony and all the amenities, including a bath and a washing machine, we were very happy.

The view from the balcony wasn’t anything special, we could see the below pool, a couple of the other blocks, the Amazon Mini Mart at the end of the street, and a new block of buildings being constructed.

We were a 20–30-minute walk away from Katos Paphos main area, which houses a long strip of cocktail bars and restaurants. And even in December there’s a large number of men outside these places offering a 10 per cent discount because “you’re a such a pretty lady, oh my god.” Maybe it’s more intense because there’s fewer people, but honestly some of them would not take no for an answer. No, I don’t want to eat at the restaurant you’ve got a captive pelican outside of, thanks.

Paphos strip at night

Our first night

By the time we’d checked in, dropped our bags off, made our way down to the strip for the first time, it was already dark, and it was cold. We settled for a cocktail and one of the trashiest and cheapest looking bars, and headed off to bed.

Now, me and my friend are not big partiers. I’m more of a get up early and go on a hike kind of girl, and she’s more of a read a book in a hammock in the sun kind of lady, so we weren’t there to club, and it’s a good job too.

In December it’s like a ghost town in large of parts of the back streets. Desolate bars taken over by colonies of cats, restaurants with no lights, and the occasional sports bar with five loud British men yelling at the screens.

The main strip however is all open. There’s a large selection of places to eat, from seafood to pasta, but not much choice for genuine Cypriot food, and definitely not all that great for a vegan. I mostly ate veggie burgers, which are nice, but not anything I can’t have at home.

Vegan burglar

On day two we started the day late, I had an online zoom interview at midday, so we didn’t go anywhere prior to this for fear of not making it back on time (it went well, thanks for asking).

We decided to take a stroll down to Paphos Castle, see the tombs and all the historic bits, which was all very nice. But very quiet and not all that accessible this time of year. It’s not like stepping off the bus and seeing the pyramids, but it’s nice to see some of the islands culture. Although I feel most people holidaying in Cyprus aren’t there to learn about its history.

Read more: Why Anguilla is the best place for a Big Birthday

The walk along the strip in the day was a lot nicer than at night. Don’t get me wrong, you’re still bombarded with comments and invites, but everything looks a lot prettier. There are people busking Christmas music, iguanas and their owners sitting by the port side, and warm enough you could walk around in shorts.

I feel like they try to be festive, there’s Christmas music playing everywhere, weekend Christmas markets, light up led… boats, whatever Christmas is to you, hey? But I think being English, my idea of Christmas is cold and wet and dark, and hearing a samba remix of Feliz Navidad on repeat everywhere did feel surreal.

We went to The Harbour restaurant for dinner, where there’s a great beach biew, and they had a solid five vegan options. At this magic place, my friend got a chicken gyro filled with salad and chips for less than €4. What a win!

We enjoyed a couple of cocktails there, and then wandered on, deciding to head back up to the apartment and get evening ready. For us this doesn’t mean getting glammed up in skimpy dresses and makeup, but more extra layers as the sun was going down.

Later that evening…

We discovered  Pingouino, a lush lounge with a heated outdoor space. They showed the football but it felt so far from a sports bar, and we returned for another evening. The cocktails weren’t too expensive either; I think the classics were all around the €9.50-€10 mark, which was a little more pricey than a lot of places, but the couple of extra euros made all the difference to the quality of the drinks. It also seemed to be the place that (at this time of year), wasn’t full of just British tourists, and rather locals, which was a much nicer vibe.

Pingouino, Paphos

We got a little tipsy and headed to bed, ready for a beach day ahead

Now, to spare you some disappointment if you decide to venture to Paphos, Coral Bay is not so named because of its abundance of coral, but because they thought it sounded nice.

It’s a lovely beach, about a 25–30-minute cab ride, or two busses away, with sandy and clear waters. We got there around 10am and it was still quiet, just locals going for a picturesque run or morning swim. Quite a few of them in – dare I say – the skimpiest Speedos I’ve ever seen.

The pictures of the bay in summer shows thousands of people lounging under umbrellas and the sea heaving with swimmers. In December, it’s not so much like this. The beach bar and the activity centre was well and truly closed, although you could still shower, and there were changing rooms and toilets. But if you were hoping to hire a lounger and umbrella or even a glass bottomed canoe, you’ll be disappointed.

By this point we’d learned not to trust Google Maps. A few long walks met with closed and very much not-opening-any-time-soon bars and restaurants taught us this. My best advice is maybe don’t go to that really far out of the centre, even if Google says it’s open. Because chances are it might not be – the Google listings are not always up to date.

We were determined to get in the sea

So we’d come with sandwiches and boxed wine, bikinis and rented towels, what more could you need? Obviously we got in the sea, it was crystal clear blue, and you could see shoals of little fish. The tanned locals were saying it’s too cold, but we were never going to listen.

It wasn’t warm, but it wasn’t cold by any means. I’d say it’s about as warm as late June in England. I think we stayed in for a solid 15 mins, and then lounged on the beach for a few hours, downing dodgy Cypriot box wine, and got our tan on.

We’d heard of caves the other side next bay, so we decided to walk along the coast to find them. Unfortunately we never did, and I was sad to have missed out. Maybe it was blindingly obvious, but we were too sun- and wine-kissed to see the signs?!

Either way, lots of locals and other tourists told us we’d missed out, so if you’re there, go and have a look for me?!

From beaches to donkeys

On our final day, we decided to visit Animal Rescue Cyprus, which was a 10-minute walk from our apartment. This is Cyprus’s oldest no-kill shelter, which offers sanctuary to animals like cats, dogs, horses and of course donkeys. What they do is fantastic, they help to minimise over-population in animals by neutering them. They feed them, take care of them and give them medical attention. The sanctuary can be overwhelming; there are a LOT of animals. Some of the dogs are tied up, and look intimidating, but they all love the attention. They’re tied up because they don’t always get on with other dogs, but they all have beds, food, water and shelter.

When you arrive, you just go straight in, making sure to lock the gate to stop donkeys escaping, and I would recommend only bringing food if you are confident around animals. The second you whip out some food, you’ll be surrounded by an array of large animals. I almost got my head kicked in by a horse while sitting on the floor feeding some cats, so watch out!

It was a lovely visit, but it was a hard one. They’re doing everything they can for the animals but they’re not working with much so it can feel a little bare. But like I said, all the animals were happy there and loved some pats and snacks. We made a cash and food donation, and went on our way.

Heading back to Pingouino we enjoyed some dinner, a few drinks, stroked a few passing cats before calling it a night. We had an earlyish flight and not much idea on how fast security would be through the airport. I have some nightmare flights before!

Chicken at Pinguino

On our last morning, we got booted out at 10am

So we read books in the sun by the pool and grabbed a cab to the airport. The airport is small and the technology feels like Gatwick used to when I was a young kid. No liquids over 100ml, everything separated, the oldest scanners, a whole two rows of security. It’s a small airport, but it’s got some good food options, and even an outside café/bar area.

The flight back was bumpy, we got unlucky on turbulence, but otherwise it was fine. The flight each way is just under five hours, which is a little long for a 5-day trip, but with a glass or two of wine, and a late night behind you, you can sleep through it, as I discovered.

Cyprus is well worth a visit for some winter sun. It’s cheap, it’s accessible, it’s not as far or as pricey as other locations for winter warmth, and it’s got a certain British charm. Check it out, but take a real map with you as well as your mobile.

• • • We stayed at the Arthemus Cynthia Complex, which was €xx per night – obviously expect to pay more during the high season
    • Flights were by xxx and cost € / £ from Gatwick to Paphos – again, prices will vary
    • Holiday booked via Lastminute.com
    • Bolt from the airport to the resort €38

Lili Lowe

Lili works across all the channels; writing articles, taking photographs, creating content, and designing eye-capturing imagery. She’s an animal-lover who cries just seeing a picture of a baby sloth.

The post Cyprus for winter sun – is it actually warm and sunny enough!? appeared first on Silver Magazine.

Luxury isn’t something my mum was accustomed to. Holidays for her as she grew up in Ireland were non-existent. Her early adult life in England was spent looking after children. Then, from the age of 29 to 65, she spent most of her days working long, long hours for the NHS, for over three decades in a mental hospital in Basingstoke.

She loved the idea of travelling but – apart from two weeks every summer (to visit family across the Irish Sea) – did very little of it.

Travels with Mum – then and now…

When I was 17, we spent a week in Malta. It was just me and her. She was only 39, and being pretty foxy-looking got chatted up constantly by amorous Maltese men.

Jacqui with her mum, top of York Minster, 1972

Then, when I’d been working as a journalist for a couple of years, I saved up some money to take her to Paris. We stayed in a cheap hotel and visited all the sights. It wasn’t especially fancy but she thought just being in the city was terribly glamorous. She really threw herself into it, and could speak pidgin French by the time we got home. I told her that one day we’d go somewhere a bit more ‘five star’.

She would have loved Cyprus with its fantastic weather. She was a bit of a sun worshipper and I’d often find her on a hot summer’s afternoon, when I got in from school, sitting on a chair in the garden, just by the back door, her freckled face tilted sunwards, soaking up the rays. The warm glittering sea and amazing history of Cyprus would have appealed to her, and she’d have definitely loved the luxurious family-run Asimina Suites hotel in Paphos: a short taxi ride from the airport. So no precious sunbathing time lost!

The staff at the tranquil, relaxing (no under-16s: might explain it!) Asimina are friendly, attentive and accommodating. But never overbearing; they go out of their way to make their guests as comfortable as possible. Within minutes of arriving, after a warm welcome and a chilled glass of champagne accompanied by a few dainty canapés (which every guest receives, not just VIPs like me), I felt instantly spoilt. My mum wasn’t a big drinker – it’d go straight to her head and make her cheeks instantly pink. But she’d definitely down a flute or two of champers given the chance.

I could imagine her face, had we holidayed here together and seen one of the luxury suites for the first time. We could have chosen a one bed or two bed, with or without private pool. I could almost hear her saying “I could happily live here!”

Hotel suite at the five star Asimina Suites Hotel

With a spacious living room, well-equipped kitchen area, super comfy king size beds and a bathroom fit for a movie star, she’d have wandered from room to room, wide-eyed and delighted.

The balcony view of the two adjoining turquoise pools with a backdrop of a private sandy beach (the largest in Paphos) would have had her jaw hitting the floor. She’d have donned her swimsuit and headed for the sun loungers in a matter of minutes and swimming in the sparkly waters of the Aegean Sea shortly after that.

Mum, you’d have adored the island, and the food and drink…

The beautiful island of Cyprus was one of many places on her bucket list but sadly she never made it. She had so many plans, but her life was sadly cut short in 2009 with many destinations left unvisited. I vowed back then that I wouldn’t do the same – leave things too late – and decided to grab with both hands every travel opportunity that came my way. I believed that if I carried her memory with me, in my heart and mind, she could perhaps somehow share my adventures.

She’d have been proud of me as I set off on my first lone journey at the age of 50. Unlike me, she’d have had no fear of travelling alone. The few solo trips she made included the former Yugoslavia, Spain, and – her favourite place – the Greek island of Kefalonia.

Read more: Why the over-50s are leading the field in adventure travel

Greek food was her favourite so she’d have definitely enjoyed the delicious meals on the Cypriot menus. The fresh Greek salads, the mouth-watering lemon chicken, the scrumptious tenderloin steaks, and the wide range of tasty desserts; the chocolate lava cake in particular. The menu at the hotel’s beachside restaurant Kymata (the most intimate of the hotel’s four restaurants) was just perfect. All my favourite dishes in one place, and the best pepper steak I’ve ever had!

L-R Mum. As a young woman in Ireland 1956, catching some rays in the back garden 1985, on her beloved Kefalonia 2000. Article on Silver Magazine www.silvermagazine.co.uk

All kinds of fun activities can be organised at the hotel. I opted for the complimentary gin-tasting session, which was more than eye-opening as I found a gin I actually liked. With ginger ale the Opihr brand felt positively medicinal (as did some of the wines I tried at a wine-tasting experience at Ktima Gerolemo winery the following day where I drank red, rosé and ‘firewater’ wines and even found a white wine I enjoyed- a rare occurrence). Yes, I know… I’ll detox next week!

My mum was also a big fan of Turkish delight (it’s one of those ‘Marmite’ things; you either love it or hate it: I’m not keen). She would have been intrigued to see it being made in an assortment of unexpected flavours (ouzo and bergamot were especially unusual) in the little family shop – Arsinoe Yeroskipos – I visited in Geroskipou.

And Mum, there’s so much history here!

She had a curious mind and would have been absolutely enthralled by Cypriot history and all the mythology. She was an artist in her spare time and, because of that, I’m sure she’d have found the ancient mosaics at the ancient site of Curium along with the ruins of the Sanctuary of Apollon Ylatis quite inspirational. Seeing Aphrodite’s Rock at Petra tou Romiou, where the mythical goddess was born from the foam of the sea, would have set her imagination whirring too.

She’d have found the 9th century Byzantine church; the Church of Agia Paraskevi, Geroskipou, interesting too. Bring a bit of a feminist she wouldn’t have approved of the sexist rule though, that mean women and girls are still forbidden to enter the inner sanctum of the church. And are only allowed to sit at the back of the church. That’s still a men-only zone.

Being used to early rises most of her life, my mum, opposite to me in so many ways, wasn’t one for staying up past midnight but she’d have had a fun (not too late) night out in vibrant Paphos Town.

It’s a shame my lovely mum left this world before she’d had a chance to properly explore it

Had I taken her to the island, I’d have insisted on heading to Omodos, the cutest town in Cyprus (in my opinion anyway), with its cobbled streets, quirky restaurants and shops selling all manner of traditional fayre; food, clothing, jewellery, pottery and artwork. I’d have taken her to lunch at Stou Kir-Yianni restaurant which, besides Kmitra (at Asima Suites) HAS to be one of the best restaurants in Cyprus. We’d have had chicken with Comanderie sauce, truffle pasta, grilled halloumi, and lashings of tomato and onion salad. And perhaps a glass or two of Cypriot wine to wash it all down.

It’s a shame my lovely mum left this world before she’d had a chance to properly explore it but I’m happy that I’m lucky enough to be able to continue her journeying on her behalf. She’s on a very different journey now, but I hope she enjoyed our trip to Cyprus from afar and is pleased that we made it there. Even though it may not have been in the most traditional of ways.

Go where I went, do what I did…

The hotel
Beachfront 5 star hotel in Paphos, Cyprus || Asimina Suites Hotel
(Book before 28 February 2025 and save 20%)

The church
Byzantine Church of Agia Paraskevi

The restaurant
Stou Kir-Yianni Restaurant

The winery
Ktima Gerolemo

The Turkish delight shop
Arsinoe Yeroskipos, Geroskipou

The Sanctuary Of Apollo

Archaelogical site and Roman Amphitheater Kourion

Other places to visit:

Lots to do in Paphos including the UNESCO World Heritage Sites

Great shopping and restaurants in Paphos Old Town, which became European Capital of Culture in 2017 and European Capital of Smart Tourism in 2023

Book before 28 February 2025 and save 20% at Constantinou Bros Asimina Suites Hotel in Paphos, Cyprus. A 7 night stay in a Junior Suite on B&B at Asimina Suites with Easyjet flights from Gatwick including luggage and airport transfers is from £999.00 per person. For further information simply contact the UK sales office on 01924 380160 or email sales@uk-cbh.com or visit www.asimina-cbh.com

Jacqui Deevoy

Jacqui Deevoy has been a freelance journalist for over three decades, starting out on teenage magazines, then later working for women’s magazines worldwide, and national newspapers including the Daily Mail, the Mirror, Express and Telegraph. These days, as well as writing for magazines, papers and websites, she produces documentaries and hosts a Monday night talk show for Unprecedented TV.

The post Dear Mum. Cyprus is lovely – wish you were here appeared first on Silver Magazine.

How are you finding your Dry January? If you’re already ready to rip, and counting the hours until it’s over, let me tell you about a trip I had to Cyprus with an itinerary including gin and wine tasting.

I’d been trying to hop on the wagon before I went, but that went out of the window almost immediately. On arrival at the luxurious Asimina Hotel in Paphos, abstinence became a distant memory as soon as the champagne appeared. A cocktail or two later and I’d well and truly fallen.

Later in the stay I was treated to a gin-tasting and education session from a very knowledgeable Cypriot chap called George. These sessions can be arranged in advance for guests.

Fortunately, there was food…

Lucky I wasn’t on a diet, as that too would have been all but a distant memory once I stepped over the threshold of one of the four on-site restaurants. The outdoor eatery, nestled in a leafy corner of the resort, was my favourite. 

The terrace restaurant is five star and classy, with low lighting and a medium-sized a la carte menu. A team of international chefs do the cooking, not only of traditional Cypriot dishes but also of Thai and Italian delights. 

Dining under the stars, with a view of the sea, being served exquisite food (the grilled swordfish, and garlic and chilli salmon were especially good), and divine cocktails was a complete joy. The French Martini – vodka, peach juice and Chambord – quickly became my new favourite cocktail.

The second morning, a cookery lesson on the terrace – courtesy of the hotel chef – was fun, despite my slight hangover. We made moussaka Cypriot style (beef and pork instead of lamb) and a veggie version too, made with layers of aubergine and mushroom. That was lunch sorted.

The lush life

Relaxing by one of the two large pools was delightful, and waiter service considerably enhanced the experience. There’s nothing quite as decadent as ordering French Martinis from a supine position and going for dips between sips.

There’s nothing quite as decadent as ordering French Martinis from a supine position and going for dips between sips

The evening view from my suite – no rooms here, just luxury suites, complete with comfortable lounge, kitchen area with a well-stocked mini-bar, sumptuous bedroom with queen size bed and spacious marble-clad bathroom with a gorgeous deep bath and huge shower – was stunning. (Twelve of the 111 suites have their own private sea-view pools.)

From my second floor apartment, I could see terraces, an array of shrubs, flowers, tall palm trees and one of two outdoor pools. A few steps beyond the pools the Mediterranean Sea, edged by the Kato Paphos beach, sparkled as the orange sun dipped into the hazy horizon.

In love with my bathroom

The weather at this time of year (mid-October) was more than clement: a comfortable 25 degrees with a warm and gentle breeze. No jacket required – not even when eating out in the evenings. When it’s cooler, staying in isn’t a bad option as the hotel has an indoor pool and jacuzzi, four bars, a hair salon, a gym, a shop and evening entertainment.

Read: Great walking holidays in Europe

Historical tours and Cleopatra 

A full day tour took me to the harbour in Paphos where we explored Pafos Castle (a 13th century Byzantine fortress, dismantled by the Venetians and rebuilt by the Ottomans in 1592) and to the Paphos Archaeological Park in Nea Pafos where I – and other tourists – viewed the ancient mosaic floors of Roman ruins (comprising five houses built around the second century and unearthed in the 1980s).

The tiled floors are mostly intact and depicted all kinds of myths, one being the tragic love story of Dionysis and Ariadne, the tale on which Shakespeare allegedly based Romeo And Juliet.

The tour guide explained how Cleopatra’s descendants once ruled Cyprus. She also told us how the pods of the indigenous carob tree, each being exactly the same size and weight as the next, were once used to weigh gold, giving rise to the word ‘carat’.

I learned that cats were brought to the island many years ago to kill off the snakes. (It didn’t work; the island is now home to many species of snake and a whole load of ownerless but very well-fed cats).

Another fascinating fact is that English king, Richard The Lionheart, got married in Cyprus in 1191: the only British royal wedding that’s taken place somewhere other than the UK.

Along the coast, I stopped at Aphrodite’s Rock. Aphrodite – the Greek goddess of love – was said to have been born in Paphos, not in the usual way of course but by emerging from the foam of the sea.

Aphrodite’s Rock, Cyprus. Photo: Dimitris Vetsikas

Wines fit for the Gods

Despite the island’s 6000-year history of wine-making, most Brits aren’t familiar with Cypriot wines. And probably wouldn’t think of Cyprus for wine tasting. An hour by car northwards, by the Troos mountains, was Ktemo Gerolemo, a winery where I keenly sampled an array of Cypriot wines.

Many of the wineries are run by families, who have not yet got into the whole business of export. The white, red and rosé were delicious and surprisingly smooth, the dessert wines were syrupy sweet, and the fiery Cypriot brandy called Zivania (which I necked as a shot, and really shouldn’t have!): it felt so medicinal that I now feel 100% safe from lurgies of all kinds this winter.

The village of Omodos, a little further north, is quaint and hilly with cobbled streets and many cute little shops and restaurants.

The narrow street with the small stone houses, colourful wooden doors and old amphoras, Omodos, Cyprus.

We lunched here – at Stou Kir Yianni – on a decadent, 16 course mezze of Greek salad, spinach pies, Cypriot sausages, chicken kebabs, roast pork and roast potatoes. I learnt something new about myself too – that, after years of disliking them, I suddenly love truffles. Maybe Cypriot ones are different to British ones – I don’t know – but the truffle pasta was out-of-this-world delicious. The mezze was so huge, the tour guide ended up with a takeaway big enough to feed her and her family for at least a week.

Other nights out included champagne at the glitzy rooftop bar at a neighbouring hotel, a meal at Fetta’s Corner in Paphos town, followed by cocktails and shisha at a lively bar until the early hours.

So much for sober October!

Visit the Constantinou Bros Asimina Suites Hotel

If you’re looking for a good value spring break, consider Paphos. And definitely consider this amazing hotel. Winner of over 16 awards in the last two years, the Constantinou Bros Asimina Suites Hotel, Paphos – with prices from £999 for 7 night departures in May 2023 in a Junior Suite land view room on B&B with flights from Gatwick including private transfers – are taking bookings now. (Early booking discount: save 20% for all bookings until 28th February 2023.)

For further information please call the Constantinou Bros Hotels UK Sales office on 01924 380160

Website:  www.cbh-cyprus.com

Jacqui Deevoy

Jacqui Deevoy has been a freelance journalist for over three decades, starting out on teenage magazines, then later working for women’s magazines worldwide, and national newspapers including the Daily Mail, the Mirror, Express and Telegraph. These days, as well as writing for magazines, papers and websites, she produces documentaries and hosts a Monday night talk show for Unprecedented TV.

The post Dreaming of a holiday? Try Cyprus for wine tasting appeared first on Silver Magazine.