I’m at that age now where I really appreciate the finer things in life

I’m lured by luxury travel, luscious food and wine, and lazing around in the spa. So I was thrilled to discover all of the above – and more – when I went to explore Cognac.

What is the difference between cognac and brandy? Do you know? For those who don’t (and I didn’t before I went), all cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is cognac. Only brandy from the Cognac region is called cognac. And it has to follow a distinct set of distillation and ageing processes.

I was in Cognac to learn about cognac and visit the distilleries. Moving around the region, all the big names jump out at you from every winding road through the vineyards: Martell, Rémy Martin, Courvoisier, Hennessy… but there are loads of smaller independent producers too. The region supports both – those vineyards not big enough to make their own cognac sell their grapes to the big houses.

Employment and the economy in the area is hugely driven by the industry – that and tourism. In 2024, there were over 4,400 winegrowers, 120 professional distillers and 270 merchants operating within the Cognac area. And many of the Cognac houses are still family-owned.

Many – probably most – offer some kind of tour and tasting experience. I was lucky enough to visit (in order) Chateau Montifaud, Hennessy, Delamain, and Rémy Martin. They’re all hugely different, with each visit offering a completely unique experience.

Visiting Cognac

The Cognac region is about halfway down France on the lefthand side. The closest airports are Bordeaux and La Rochelle, but you can reach the area by train and road. I’d recommend hiring a car as it’s a rural region.

Arriving into Bordeaux after a very quick hop and a skip from Gatwick (it’s less than two hours in the air), I was very pleased to see that we were immediately headed for lunch. If there’s one thing – of many things – the French do extremely well, it’s lunch. And I was not disappointed.

Weaving our way into one of those tiny little restaurants you might easily pass, on an ancient street flanked with shuttered houses, we headed upstairs at Restaurant Cave La Quincaillerie for their set lunch. This little cave of joy is in the Michelin Guide, and deservedly so. An hour or so later, I was happily stuffed with melty goat’s cheese on toast, slow cooked pork with pommes puree, and a greedy plate of cheese from the trolley, all washed down with a bottle of excellent Sancerre.

What a way to kick off the trip. Rubbing my fat tummy, I climbed back into the charabanc for our next stop, Chateau Montifaud.

Chateau Montifaud is a family-owned house that has been with the family Vallet for six generations, notching up more than 150 years of experience. We had a lovely tour, bumbling around the distillery learning about the processes. Nice touch with this tour was having a cocktail shaker handed to us at the start, and with each stage of the tour, a new ingredient added, relative to the information of the moment, resulting in a good shaking at the end of the tour, and a lovely cognac-based cocktail to quaff.

Where I stayed

After such a good lunch, and more than a little sampling of cognacs at Montifaud, I was pleased to arrive at our hotel, and even more pleased when I saw my absolutely stunning room.

Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa is a gorgeous five-star property right in the heart of Cognac. Sprawling across a wide area, the house used to be a distillery, and the hotel buildings are all comprised of the former cellars, cooperage, ageing halls (chais) etc. The conversion has been beautifully handled, and the property is rich with the tapestry of its history. It has a relaxing spa area complete with inside/outside pool, and several spaces in which to eat and drink in luxury. It’s also a perfect base from which to explore the Cognac region.

After a bit of very welcome down time to digest and unpack, we were treated to an absolutely majestic tasting menu at the hotel’s Michelin starred restaurant, Les Foudres. Course after course came out, delivered with theatrical aplomb, interspersed with amuse-bouches and palette cleansers, and every course paired with a beautiful wine. It was a masterclass in quality and delivery, and it very nearly had me beaten.

Up the next morning and still feeling full…

I launched a rather pathetic attack at some coffee and a skirmish with an egg before we hit the road to visit Maison Hennessy. And what a wild trip this was. I had expected to view the cellars, try some cognacs, hear some history, and we did have all that. What I wasn’t expecting was a fantastic mind-bending virtual reality trip through the Hennessy journey with full AR headsets on, a boat ride over the river to the Hennessy cellars, and a chance to visit the cooperage and watch an apprentice cooper make a barrel from scratch.

Hennessy is one of the few houses left that have a cooperage on site. And the mathematical and physical balance it takes to make a cask without glue, bind it all together with metal hoops, heat it and bend it to fit, and get the lid on with all its groovy grooves… my little mind was blown. Yours truly, being the sort that gets stuck in, even had a go on the ratchety machine thing that draws the slats together. This was a bit of a once-in-a-lifetime kind of morning – I will forever be able to say that there are glasses of H-dawg circulating that has been laid in a barrel I helped make.

After all this activity, we had a tasting – got to love quaffing Hennessy XO at 10am – and we finished up, sitting in the Hennessy café, eating cognac and raisin ice cream. And this brings me to an important point.

The French aren’t fussy about how you drink your cognac

The French take their food and drink pretty seriously, as we all know. So what I hadn’t expected was to find that absolutely no one is precious about how to drink cognac. They’re happy to adulterate it with water, mixers, ice… There was almost no balloon swirling or pontificating.

The most popular way for the locals to drink it – if they drink it at all, mostly it’s exported – is as a long drink with tonic water and ice. And this is nicer than it sounds. There are all sorts of cocktail variations using cognac. My favourite was a margarita with the tequila swapped out.

Back to the hotel for lunch in their La Distillerie restaurant, and conscious of making such a poor fist of breakfast, I went large on lunch. I felt it my duty to ensure that I tested out their skills. So, appetite sharpened by Hennessy intake, I had canapes, a melange of salmon things, and duck that was so fresh it nearly flew away off my plate.

After a necessary post-prandial forty winks, we were back at the hotel’s excellent bar, the 1838, for a cocktail masterclass. Remember when I said the French weren’t prissy about the cognac? Well, here was more proof, pun intended. Using the local fire water, we made cognac Sidecars, Negronis, and Margaritas. Then got a fantastic tour of the bar, including all the secret back bar areas.

Then into the hotel’s minibus for a short trip to Poulpette, a tiny gem of a restaurant tucked away in Cognac village. Another restaurant that you can find in the Michelin Guide, one of those absolute treasures that has a small but perfectly formed menu. I loved that they had no traditional wine list but all the wines you could order lined up on a shelf, with the price handwritten on the bottle. Like browsing a grapey library, you could have a good nose before choosing.

The restaurant is small enough to feel like you’re having a dinner party with friends. And once I’d shovelled in homemade tarama, a slab of foie gras with a giant oyster mushroom in a citron bouillon, line-caught cod with chorizo and veggies, and (ye gods) a selection of ices – chocolat, marron, saki, sesame – I could barely even breathe. What a way to go though. Have you seen La Grande Bouffe?!

Day three

Today kicked off with a trip to the spa at around 11am for a massage and some relaxing time kicking around in the pool. What a cracking way to start the day, and a really good massage too. Having worked up an appetite, er, lazing around in the jacuzzi, we had another utterly dreamy lunch at the hotel’s La Distillerie restaurant, before walking the short distance from the hotel to Rémy Martin.

Rather than visiting a vineyard this time, we were in the Remy historic house and boutique in the centre of Cognac itself. And this was a very slick, almost clinical look at Remy, its history, its artwork, and ultimately a chance to taste its cognac. Paired with dark chocolate truffles, my favourite was the XO (obviously I have expensive tastes). This tour was again completely different to both Chateau Montifaud and Hennessy, and I appreciated that. If all the tours had been the same, it would have felt less special, and less interesting.

In the early evening we embarked on an extraordinary trip into the countryside, firstly via Maison Delamain, who had laid on a beautiful ‘candle’ lit tasting with oysters and heavenly meaty snacks. It’s a real privilege to see the old distilleries like this, and I urge anyone visiting the area to get to a few different houses. The rich history of Delamain is matched only by the quality of its cognac. Even I was beginning to develop something of a palette for it by this stage.

On from Delamain to Distillerie Pinard Frères, in Jarnac, not for a tasting this time, per se, but for a singularly unique theatrical performance, Cognaço Musica. An immersive experience combining music, theatre and (yay) tastings of both pineau (the grape-must drink that’s kind of the stage before cognac), and cognac itself. Although I had very little idea what was going on, it was hugely entertaining. And it’s part of a wider cultural celebration that takes place each autumn, the Ban de la Distillation. It’s a two-day festival of the cultural heritage of the Cognac region, celebrating producers, makers and visitors through tastings, talks and experiences.

Our final port of call was for dinner this evening was Restaurant du Chateau a Jarnac – one of those quintessentially French restaurants that do literally everything properly. And I didn’t even have to think about the arduous task of ordering dinner – they’d laid on a special menu for us: a cognac/bubbles cocktail, fish soup, salmon fillet with creamy risotto, and cognac cake with pears and ice cream. Thank you, and good night.

Why go to Cognac?

Like much of France, this is a region that really shines when it comes to food and drink. But it’s a particular pilgrimage for those who really want to dig into cognac. The area is understandably saturated with it, literally and figuratively. I had an absolute whale of a time learning about the processes at the various houses we visited, as well as drinking a lot of cognac and eating a lot of stunning food.

It is always a real treat to eat at the little restaurants that you know are always tucked away in ancient French villages but not always easy to find. So if you head to the area, take my advice and try all of the eateries I went to. Also try the cognac and tonic – it works better than you’d expect, I promise.

Everything we ate and drank was faultless, although I did gain about half a stone in the space of about four days, but it was well worth it. And base yourself at the Hotel Chais Monnet and Spa for a real treat. Frankly, I never wanted to leave.

DETAILS

Explore Cognac www.explore-cognac.com
Hotel Chais Monnet Hotel & Spa
Restaurant Cave La Quincaillerie
Chateau Montifaud
Maison Hennessy
Poulpette
Rémy Martin
Chateau Delamain
Ban de la Distillation
Restaurant du Chateau a Jarnac