A perfect blend of elegance and relaxation – and you can take the kids and grandkids, if you want…

Flying out to Zurich it was an unusually clear day. So clear that as we flew over the edge of England I could see my house from the plane. I waved goodbye to Blighty and settled in for the short journey to Switzerland. I was off to review the five star Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, hurrah.

Upon landing, the first thing I discovered was that my phone provider didn’t work in Switzerland. I’d just blindly assumed that I’d automatically get data switched over, but no.

No biggie, I figured, I’d just use the free Wi-Fi that I could see was in the airport. But connecting to the airport Wi-Fi was impossible. Log in here, add this code, no you can’t because you don’t have connectivity, log in here etc.

In the end a fellow traveller did me a hot spot so I could log in and buy some data. So be warned – Switzerland is not in the EU and your phone might not automatically work there. Plan ahead.

Leaving the airport, I was excited about my onward journey, because we had a train ticket to ride. I have a mad passion for train travel. The train was very clean and – we discovered to our amusement – very strictly silent.

In fact, our small group (all women, all quite excited) was roundly told off by a very cross little man who genuinely leapt out of his seat to tap the sign that presumably said “quiet”. We all shut up, trying not to look at each other and giggle.

I was right to be excited though…

I had a first-class ticket, and a first class view of Switzerland as we sped towards our destination. Awe-inspiring mountains rising out of stunning blue lakes, the tops so high they were lost in the clouds. It was thrilling, and I don’t say that lightly. There’s a huge benefit in feeling the power of awe, and the landscape really is awesome.

I could have spent hours on the train. But we arrived at Sargans station all too soon, and were picked up to head to the hotel resort.

Once inside the hotel I was hugely impressed. The lobby is light and airy, with a fantastic art installation of bubbles to represent the natural spa/spring water in the area. It’s upmarket without feeling oppressive. I don’t know how they manage to make such a vast hotel feel so family-run, but that’s how it rolls.

Dogs are allowed, which always makes me happy. And also kids, which I’m generally less enthusiastic about, if I’m honest. The resort is very much geared up for children though, unusual for a spa hotel like this, and I think actually it’s a nice idea. There’s a Kindervilla on site, for the children to hang out in during the daytime, as well as plenty of babysitters.

There’s also a children’s Heidi-themed spa area. So although the little darlings are allowed at the hotel, you don’t get them killing the chill in the adult spa zones. I don’t really mind kids. But don’t want them squawking next to me in the jacuzzi.

Also, something that one finds increasingly these days, despite the hotel having five stars and a very luxurious offering, guests were dressed quite informally. Not scruffy, you understand. Just in a relaxed fashion – which I totally appreciate. I’m done with heels and uncomfortable clothing these days.

My suite was a total corker

The suite was vast, situated at the front of the hotel with breathtaking views across the mountains. Standing on the balcony staring at the scenery whilst soft rain pattered around me was a quiet moment of bliss that I can still feel now if I close my eyes.

On my desk I found a gorgeous little selection of sweet and savoury snacks. And I was also delighted to find a very well-stocked fridge and snack zone. Decent gin and tonic! Big tick.

Another word to the wise: I’d felt very smug remembering to bring my UK to Europe plug adaptor, but guess what?! The plugs in Switzerland are different. At our hotel the concierge had a bunch of them you could borrow, and almost everyone in our (British) group needed one. But something to be aware of.

Standing on the balcony staring at the scenery whilst soft rain pattered around me was a quiet moment of bliss

In the afternoon we’d been due to have a tour of the outside art installations, part of the Bad RagARTz exhibition, which happens once every three years. It’s a region-wide showcase, with art, sculptures and statues dotted everywhere. Worth planning a trip around this to see it, if you’re thinking of heading here. But it was raining, so instead we relaxed, had a tour of the hotel resort, including the Kindervilla, and got ready for dinner.

As I was dressing for dinner, a storm broke out over the mountains. Storms always excite me – it was quite something, thunder and lightning over the mountains. I watched it for a bit, spellbound.

Around the resort

The Grand Resort is home to several very lovely restaurants, as well as a health and medical centre, dental centre, and of course the spa. There’s even a take-away sushi kiosk, KOiSO, which I confess to ordering twice from during my stay.

The resort is a centre of medicine and wellness, not just a place for a massage and dip in the water. There are doctors here practicing in everything from orthopaedics, traumatology and vascular disease to mental health, dental health, and Chinese medicine.

There’s also a full-service plastic surgery department, sports therapy clinic, rehab centre, nutrition clinics… you name it, it’s probably at the resort. One could absolutely have a face lift and tummy tuck, and hide out here in the mountains to recover, having regular massages, therapies, and swimming in the various pools. Have put this on my mental wish list for in a few years’ time.

Our first night, and we met in the elegant lobby for cocktails

I’ve had beautifully-made cocktails in places all over the world (she said smugly) but the mixologists here are amongst the very best I’ve experienced. Exquisitely crafted drinks, gorgeous choice of glassware – a very good start to the evening.

Namun is their Asian-inspired restaurant, and where we ate on our first night. The joy of travelling in a small group means you get to order a la carte, rather than have a set menu, which can happen if you’re in a bigger group. I had Thai prawn summer rolls, and a mix of dim sum including dumplings, melt-in-the-mouth Wagyu beef, and various gyoza.

Sadly I couldn’t manage any pudding, but I did choose some sake from their extensive sake-specific menu. And by the time dinner was over, I was ready to drop. The food was magic, and I slept like a baby.

Next morning the sun had broken through…

And I was chuffed to bits that I’d ordered breakfast in my room. I leapt out of bed – well, maybe not leapt, but rose enthusiastically – and before even having a cup of tea, bolted downstairs to the outside pool. I’d seen it the day before, and was desperate to get in it, to swim with that phenomenal backdrop, and make the most of the dry weather. It was heavenly.

Back up to my room and my breakfast trolley had been delivered. This for me is the height of dining delight – to eat indulgently in the privacy of my own room. I made a point of having the ‘<<verve>>’ special, so named after the resort’s Michelin-starred restaurant. If you’re interested, it’s crispy sourdough toast, with a tomato jam, and lovage whipped tofu cream, topped with poached eggs and baby salad leaves. I could have done without the jam, very sweet. But the whippy tofu stuff was magic.

I was booked in for the ‘Pause and Reset’ treatment – an 80-minute aromatherapy full body workover that is “specifically designed to help ease the side effects of hormonal changes.” I don’t know about that, but I do know that I could barely stand when I got off the bed. Can’t remember the last time I felt so relaxed.

After that it was a short stagger to the spa area, where I bobbed about in the fabulous body-temperature swimming pool, before somehow making my way to my room for a short siesta. Nice to be able to wander around in my robe. It’s one of the nicest and oddest things about fancy spa hotels, I find. Fortunately I had the presence of mind to grab sushi to take up to my room. Because once I landed there, I was wiped out! Siesta time…

The afternoon saw a few activities before dinner…

Post-lunch, members of our group pottered around the local area. For me it was a chance to take in some of the outdoor art installations, and also have a little mooch around the little village next to the resort. Some of the group went to the Tamina Gorge, the source of the 36.5° C warm thermal waters that have made Bad Ragaz world famous.

‘Bad’ by the way, means ‘bath’, in case you were wondering. I didn’t know that until I came here, and I’d thought Bad Ragaz sounded a bit like a rapper’s name. But now we both know.

In the evening we were lucky enough to eat at verve by Sven, the Michelin-starred restaurant on site. I’d been excited about this since we arrived, and made the most of the exciting menu. For starter I had tomato, redcurrant, basil, and pine nut burrata plate, which was outstanding. Then for main course, a few of us shared the frankly astonishing seared beef cutlets with hoisin jus, served with seared lettuce and other bits.

I know, not very adventurous in a place with a star. But frankly I think you can judge a restaurant by its steaks, eggs, custards, and sauces. I’m going to say it’s a yes from me here. The beef was meltingly delish. I wish I had two stomachs.

Our final day…

And I woke up to breakfast in my room again. I went all-out this time. Eggs, crispy bacon, caviar and a little bottle of Ruinart, my favourite champagne. How could I not?!

Once we’d checked out, we had a trip to Heidi’s Village, which was as surreal and adorable as you might imagine. Although Heidi is a fictional character, the stories are set in the region, and Heidi’s Village is only a short 10 min ride from the hotel. There are goats, natch. And they’ve created the houses that Heidi and all the other book characters would have lived in. It’s a bit nuts, but very endearing. It’s perfect for children who know the stories.

The Grand Resort Bad Ragaz is a great place for multigenerational trips because it’s one of the only places in the world that I’m aware of that accommodates kids at an upmarket spa hotel.

Plenty of childcare, coupled with the children’s spa and pool areas, mean that you can take your kids and grandkids there and not have to sacrifice your own peaceful experience. Or enable your darling offspring to annoy other guests. And when you’re not in the hotel, there’s plenty to do within a short hop from the resort.

I loved the place, and wished I could have stayed longer. The food was exemplary, and the service and facilities faultless. I didn’t want to come home!

Now, to start planning my next visit there…

Grand Resort Bad Ragaz
Rates: high season, rooms and suites from 750CHF (Swiss francs) per night. A suite like mine is around 1,100CHF (£990) per night
‘Pause and Reset’ treatment 295CHF (£265)
Tasting menu at verve by Sven 120CHF (£116)
Return flight Heathrow-Zurich is around £200-300 off peak, but you can easily double that in high season