Luxury, lizards, and lots of champagne…

I’ve recently had the pleasure of visiting the Maldives, staying at the idyllic Cora Cora Maldives resort. And I’m here to tell you two perhaps surprising things.

Firstly, that although May/June is technically low season, when it’s wettest and most humid, it’s actually a very good time to go. More on this later.

And secondly, that this luxury paradise is not as pricey as you might think – particularly if you go in low season. Considering the stunning beach villa I had, the amazing food and wine I inhaled, and the fact that it’s genuinely all inclusive (more on that later too), when I came to look at the cost, I was very pleasantly surprised.

Let me tell you all about my stay…

Heading east to the Indian Ocean

Flying east is always a bit tougher on the old body clock than heading west. And when you travel to the Maldives, you’re losing a solid four hours. The pro trick? Fly overnight, sleep as much as you can on the flights, and lean into the luxury at the other end. I found that doing it this way made it easily tolerable, with minimal jet lag.

We left Heathrow on a Sunday afternoon, and flew through the night with a stopover at Doha before touching down at Malé airport just after 8am local time on the Monday morning.

As with most resorts in the Maldives, the best – and often the only – way to access the resorts is by seaplane. And I was very excited about this. However, as we were about to board, blundering around in a jetlagged brainfog like overtired toddlers, the heavens opened and there was wild wind and rain, putting us on hold for a bit. Frankly I found the whole thing quite exciting, and not because I’m British and love rain, thank you.

Being May, it’s the start of the rainy season so this sort of thing is to be expected. But the downpours are short, and we were soon skimming across turquoise waters and tiny islands like something out of a Bond film.

I slept almost the entire 45 minutes it took to get there. I think most of our group did. But how wonderful to stagger off the seaplane, on to the jetty and meet the team from Cora Cora Maldives, armed with cool flannels and floral neck garlands for us. What a gorgeous way to arrive anywhere.

Day one – settling into the luxury

Our first day was a gentle one – just enough to shake off the travel haze and settle in properly. Absolutely LOVED my beach villa. Outside the cool, air-conditioned suite, I was able to open the back door, walk onto the sand, scattering colourful birds and little lizards and crabs, and fall straight into the warmth of the Indian Ocean. I also loved the indoor/outdoor bathroom – there’s something hugely decadent about showering outside, completely naked.

We gathered for a relaxed lunch at the biggest/main restaurant on site, Tazäa, where I asked for an enormous gin and tonic and got something so strong it would have floored a rhino. OK Harrington-Lowe, I thought. When they say, ‘how many measures?’ and you hilariously say ‘six!’, maybe reframe that. I had freshly-made gazpacho and a Caesar salad. Man, it was good.

I’m just going to say that I would love to write more about all the food in this review, because every single meal I ate was exemplary. But if I gave you the rundown on everything, you would genuinely be in a retirement home by the time you’d finished reading. Everything is extraordinarily fresh, with clean, elegant menus at each restaurant. I didn’t have a duff meal once in the whole time I was there. And I tried a LOT of food!

I might have had a tiny gin-fuelled snooze after lunch…

Before easing into the evening island vibe. I had a shower, and a little mooch about outside before we all met up for dinner. Which was a frankly fantastic Japanese experience at the elegant Teien.

If I have any regrets about my trip, it would be that I didn’t get more time in Teien. It’s very rare you go to an ‘all-inclusive’ and get the option to eat yourself silly in the premium restaurants. Often, one can eat and drink in a couple of the main outlets, with additional costs levied for eating in the special places. That’s not the case here, and it’s one of the things that makes it properly standout. All the eateries are included in your package, and so are premium drinks such as champagne. It’s such a treat not to have to think about it as you go along, and an even bigger treat to eat and drink like Henry VIII 24/7.

When in, er, the Maldives…

Doing a sterling job of reviewing everything on offer, we headed for a snifter at Italian-flavoured Acquapazza, where the breeze was soft, the night was warm, and the nightcaps flowed freely. I must admit to being a bit of a lightweight here – I think I had one and headed for the very welcome AC coolness of my villa. It’s a solid 29 degrees all day and all night here, and I needed a day or two to get acclimatised to that.

Fellow group mate Lauren’s late-night battle with the local gecko population provided plenty of entertainment after I’d left, via our group WhatsApp messages. “I’m never sleeping. One’s hissing at me,” she said.

Day Two: lizards, learning, and laughter

Tuesday dawned hot and bright, and Lauren survived the night. And after breakfast we were taken on a tour of the resort. A site inspection might sound dry, but not here. Whilst the resort is a paradisical playground, the owners also work in a largely unique way to not only champion ecology and sustainability, but also to applaud and recognise its Maldivian history.

For those who don’t know about the Maldives’ background… ancient trade hub/stopoff point for Spice Road, Buddhist for centuries, Muslim from 1153, Portuguese arrived 1558, Dutch followed, British protectorate till 1965. I think I have that right. And the Dutch Onion museum on the resort reflects a lot of the rich tapestry that makes up the Maldives’ history.

The museum visit was a genuine pleasure, mostly because of the guided talk we had. Our guide was truly passionate and knowledgeable. In a small resort playground with mostly ‘fun’ things to do, I found a touch of culture very welcome. There is exceptionally thoughtful curation and some fascinating insights into Maldivian heritage.

A similarly passionate coral conservation talk led by marine biologist Giulia Morello was delivered just as the skies opened in an apocalyptic downpour – not that it dampened our mood. And it was fascinating to learn how they’re creating coral ‘reefs’ using frames which they gently attach new corals to.

Time for some more indulgence

Hitching a ride on one of the golf buggies to get me to the spa without getting drenched, the next thing on my agenda was a massage. Which I enjoyed face down on the bed, watching the waves and fish in the sea underneath the lagoon villa, through a special window in the floor. Masseuse Eva launched herself at my back and gave me the kind of working over I always want, but rarely get. That girl has The Gift.

Lunch followed at Acquapazza again, where the food is so consistently good I never want to stop eating. Yves reported that he had been having a bath and discovered a peeping bat staring at him from a tree. There are HUGE fruit bats flying around all the time. I thought they were birds, they’re so big.

Dinner was at Ginger Moon, where we overindulged in a wild array of the most amazing pan-Asian dishes under a canopy of dramatic monsoon clouds.

Wednesday: saltwater, stretching, and storms

The day dawned bright and sunny. And by Wednesday we’d all more or less adjusted to the rhythm of island life. Which is to say barefoot by breakfast and blissed-out by sunset. The day began with yoga, of course, because nothing says ‘posing in paradise’ like trying to balance in tree pose while the sound of the sea washes around you. It really was very special.

Then it was into the water for snorkelling – a proper highlight. The reef is lively and vivid, full of darting fish and the occasional moment where your brain tells you that shadow might be a shark (it might be!).

The evening brought a resort meet-and-greet, followed by dinner back at Acquapazza, where the rain decided to put on another spectacular show. The air was fresh after a brief, wild downpour. I loved it. The champagne is always on tap, the food always excellent, and the company pretty good too!

Thursday: vibes, views, and velvet skies

Thursday slowed things right down. A morning sound bath lulled us into a sort of transcendental calm, although I found just as I was drifting away it was over all too soon. We drifted between the pool and the sea in a collective trance, broken only by the occasional splash and laughter from those attempting to perfect their ‘casual holiday float’ for Instagram (looking at you, Lauren!).

As the sun dipped low, we boarded a boat for a sunset cruise. Bubbles on board and lots of bobbing about on the warm seas. The sky turned apricot and gold, Kevin and Yves recreated ‘that’ special Titanic moment, and the whole thing felt deliciously cinematic.

Friday: Champagne and so long

Friday was our final day, and the weather really turned it on. Blue skies, blistering sun, and water so clear it looked Photoshopped. We swam in the sea, lounged in the heat, and reluctantly packed our bags. A last lunch at Acquapazza, complete with chilled champagne, was the perfect farewell toast.

And then it was back on the sea plane, skimming across the waves once more, trying to hold on to the sense of calm and colour that only a place like this can give you.

Practical travel tips for UK visitors to the Maldives

Time zone shift
The Maldives is +4 hours ahead of the UK, which can mess with your body clock – especially flying east. To beat the worst of the jet lag, opt for an overnight flight. You’ll arrive in the morning local time, which makes it easier to power through the first day and reset.

Flights and transfers
There are some direct flights from the UK to the Maldives, but many have a stop. We flew with Qatar Airways and stopped at Doha, but the changeover was speedy. And honestly it was quite nice to stand up and move around for a while.

Once at Malé (MLE), many resorts (including Cora Cora Maldives) require a seaplane transfer – a glorious, scenic way to arrive, but it’s worth knowing:
• You’ll likely need to wait at the seaplane terminal a while after landing.
• Seaplanes don’t fly after dark, so late-arriving flights may require an overnight in Malé.

Currency
The Maldivian rufiyaa (MVR) is the local currency, but USD is widely/more generally accepted, especially at resorts. You won’t need much cash – most things go on your room tab – but a few bucks are handy for tips or local purchases.

Weather
Expect heat and humidity year-round. May is the start of the southwest monsoon, so while it’s warm, you may get sudden tropical downpours. Pack high-SPF sunscreen, light clothing, and a decent hat – the sun is fierce.

Connectivity
Wi-Fi is generally good at high-end resorts like Cora Cora, and I found that by the time I’d piggy-backed the Wi-Fi in the airport and then the resort, I didn’t need to pay for data for my phone, which can be expensive. Download anything essential before you go, and consider a local SIM or travel data package if you plan to be online a lot and you’re moving about.

Sustainability notes
The Maldives is incredibly eco-conscious – especially the newer resorts. Cora Cora Maldives is single-use plastic free, has its own coral regeneration programme, and encourages barefoot luxury with a conscience. Treat this with the respect it deserves.

Costs

Looking ahead to 2026 and planning as if I was going to go back for my birthday in late January, these are the best costs I tracked down online (in June 2025), booking directly with Cora Cora Maldives, and Qatar Airways.

Six nights at Cora Cora Maldives, January 2026

Lagoon Villa £2,000 pp
Beach Villa £2,500 pp
Flights on Qatar Airways £745 pp